Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Aigua Blava, Spain, June 2012
The Costa Brava is the northeastern costal region of Catalonia, Spain, starting from Blanes and going north to the French border. Ferran Agulló, a journalist born in Girona, referred to the rugged landscape of the area with the name Costa Brava in 1908. After Spain began recovering from their Civil War in the 1950’s, the area was promoted by the Spanish Government and locals as a tourist destination. Until that time the beaches were mainly used for Sunday leisure pursuits for the local people. With the overcrowding that the Côte d’Azur was experiencing, there was a need for less crowded beaches. Soon this area became a popular destination. Now tourism is the principal business of the area.
On our most recent drive from Barcelona, we decided to go off the beaten path and experience the Costa Brava. The area is rugged and surrounded by farms and vineyards. Fields of sunflowers were already in bloom in the end of June. We had a hot tip from an ex-pat colleague that Aigua Blava is the place to go for the most unspoiled and beautiful beach scenery. The drive was nice, but as we got closer to our destination, we began a descent towards the beach. Not realizing that we were heading towards the bottom of a very steep hill with a small parking lot. Of course, the parking lot was full on a Saturday afternoon! Getting out proved to be very difficult, mainly due to the lack of power of the small car and the fact that we were pinned in by a bus that actually thought it could turn around at the bottom. I popped the car out if first gear twice, stalling and slipping ever closer to the bus! I had to give up, put on the parking break and turn the car over to my husband. He had his turn, and on the second try, managed to spin out, toss up a bit of gravel and get us up the hill. Using the bus as leverage to push us off, I do believe! We were still determined to see the sights, so we found a spot at the top of the hill, parked the car, hiked down for a rewarding view and a delicious lunch.
Monday, June 25, 2012
Travels To Mirepoix France, June 2012
One Sunday we left Toulouse in search of the French country side. After leaving the toll roads, we found ourselves in wheat fields and sunflower fields. The rolling hills were wonderful, and many people were taking advantage of this on their bicycles. Our destination was Mirepoix, between Foix and Carcassonne.
When I think of Mirepoix, it is generally in terms of cooking, a seasoning base. And what do you know, there is a relation between the two.
Since the 10th century there has been a documented settlement in the area. In 1209, during the Crusade against the Cathars, the feudal chateau was taken over by Simon de Montfort. He in turn gave the settlement to his loyal lieutenant Guy de Levis, who then received the title Marchecal de Mirepoix. A flood destroyed the town in 1289, and it was rebuilt a year later in a slightly different spot. The town continued to grow and prosper and was made a bishopric by then Pope John XXII. A band of robbers burned the town in 1362, so then it became a walled city. Very little is left of the wall today, but you can still see one of the gate areas.
The town church is named St. Maurice. It was first built in 1298 and over time was transformed into a cathedral. Today, it is famous for having one of the widest naves of any built in the French Gothic style. Only the church in Gerona, Spain is wider. It has a bit of water damage from leaks, but overall is still quite beautiful. The pipe organ is enormous, but we did not get to hear it on this visit.
Outside of the church, there is a main square surrounded by buildings that date back to 13th to 15th century. Each of the buildings has the first floor constructed so that it juts out over timbers. The shops and restaurants in the square a well kept and make for a wonderful place to stop and spend the day.
So, now back to the culinary portion of the blog. According to The Food Lover's Companion, 4th Edition, 2007, a mirepoix is a mixture of small dice carrots, onion, celery and herbs sauteed in butter. Sometimes ham or bacon is added. Mirepoix is used to season sauces, soups and stews as well as serving as the bed for braising meat of fish. There are regional varieties of the mirepoix, but the name mirepoix is attributed to the cook employed by Charles-Pierre-Gaston Francois de Levis, duc of Levis-Mirepoix (1699-1757). This man was a field marshal and ambassador and member of the noble family of Levis, lords of Mirepoix in Languedoc since the 11th century. With all of this in his favor, the Duke of Mirepoix is described by Pierre Larousse as having been completely incompetent and a mediocre individual. That he owed his whole fortunes to the fact that King Louis the XV had a thing for his wife. The Duke of Mirepoix had but just one claim to fame: he gave his name to a sauce. But in reality, having a good chef gave him a lasting place in history.
When I think of Mirepoix, it is generally in terms of cooking, a seasoning base. And what do you know, there is a relation between the two.
Since the 10th century there has been a documented settlement in the area. In 1209, during the Crusade against the Cathars, the feudal chateau was taken over by Simon de Montfort. He in turn gave the settlement to his loyal lieutenant Guy de Levis, who then received the title Marchecal de Mirepoix. A flood destroyed the town in 1289, and it was rebuilt a year later in a slightly different spot. The town continued to grow and prosper and was made a bishopric by then Pope John XXII. A band of robbers burned the town in 1362, so then it became a walled city. Very little is left of the wall today, but you can still see one of the gate areas.
The town church is named St. Maurice. It was first built in 1298 and over time was transformed into a cathedral. Today, it is famous for having one of the widest naves of any built in the French Gothic style. Only the church in Gerona, Spain is wider. It has a bit of water damage from leaks, but overall is still quite beautiful. The pipe organ is enormous, but we did not get to hear it on this visit.
Outside of the church, there is a main square surrounded by buildings that date back to 13th to 15th century. Each of the buildings has the first floor constructed so that it juts out over timbers. The shops and restaurants in the square a well kept and make for a wonderful place to stop and spend the day.
So, now back to the culinary portion of the blog. According to The Food Lover's Companion, 4th Edition, 2007, a mirepoix is a mixture of small dice carrots, onion, celery and herbs sauteed in butter. Sometimes ham or bacon is added. Mirepoix is used to season sauces, soups and stews as well as serving as the bed for braising meat of fish. There are regional varieties of the mirepoix, but the name mirepoix is attributed to the cook employed by Charles-Pierre-Gaston Francois de Levis, duc of Levis-Mirepoix (1699-1757). This man was a field marshal and ambassador and member of the noble family of Levis, lords of Mirepoix in Languedoc since the 11th century. With all of this in his favor, the Duke of Mirepoix is described by Pierre Larousse as having been completely incompetent and a mediocre individual. That he owed his whole fortunes to the fact that King Louis the XV had a thing for his wife. The Duke of Mirepoix had but just one claim to fame: he gave his name to a sauce. But in reality, having a good chef gave him a lasting place in history.
Thursday, June 21, 2012
Collioure, France, June 2012
While drive back from Barcelona, we decided to stop for lunch in Collioure, France. It is a small village on the Mediterranean Coast, just over the boarder of Spain. This area was considered part of Catalonia until the mid 17th century. During the 14th century, this port was one of the biggest trading centers of Aragon, transporting cloth made in Perpignan. When the French gained control, the city was modernized. The old quarter that survives is now the center of Collioure.
At the far end of the town is the church Notre Dame des Agnes. The lighthouse is attached to the church providing the bell tower. On the other end of town is the Chateau Royal which was built atop a former Roman site. It was the former summer home of the kings of Majorca from 1276-1344 until taken over by the kings of Aragon.
More recently, Fauve artists including Henri Matisse, Pablo Pisasso and Andre Derain among others painted here. There are frames set up around town where these artists set their easels to paint.
The anchovies from this region are world famous. The preparation of the anchovies is the same as it has always been; brine soaked from May to August, rinsed and packed in oil either in tins or jars. A favorite preparation is mashing the anchovies in olive oil with basil and garlic and spreading it on toasted french bread. This accompanies an aperitif.
The Collioure AOC designation is most recent, in the 1970s. The vineyards are unique that the grapevines are trained as bush vines. Reds are full bodied, with polished tannin's and a deep dark color. Rose's are very aromatic and have a raspberry color. A few whites are made as well, full bodied and golden colored.
This is a lovely stop, and highly recommended.
At the far end of the town is the church Notre Dame des Agnes. The lighthouse is attached to the church providing the bell tower. On the other end of town is the Chateau Royal which was built atop a former Roman site. It was the former summer home of the kings of Majorca from 1276-1344 until taken over by the kings of Aragon.
More recently, Fauve artists including Henri Matisse, Pablo Pisasso and Andre Derain among others painted here. There are frames set up around town where these artists set their easels to paint.
The anchovies from this region are world famous. The preparation of the anchovies is the same as it has always been; brine soaked from May to August, rinsed and packed in oil either in tins or jars. A favorite preparation is mashing the anchovies in olive oil with basil and garlic and spreading it on toasted french bread. This accompanies an aperitif.
The Collioure AOC designation is most recent, in the 1970s. The vineyards are unique that the grapevines are trained as bush vines. Reds are full bodied, with polished tannin's and a deep dark color. Rose's are very aromatic and have a raspberry color. A few whites are made as well, full bodied and golden colored.
This is a lovely stop, and highly recommended.
Monday, June 18, 2012
St Sernin Basilica, Toulouse France
St Saturnin or Sernin was the first bishop of Toulouse. He was martyred in 250 CE by having his feet
tied to a bull and dragged through the streets. St Sylvius, then bishop of Toulouse began
the construction of the first church at this location at the end of the 4th
century. This church was conveniently
located along the major pilgrimage route from Arles to Santiago de
Compostela. This site grew in
importance after a major donation of relics from Charlemagne between 768 and
800. By the 11th century a
newer, much larger church was begun, as the existing facility was too small the
handle the crowds.
Today the Basilica still houses many relics and works of
art. Much to my surprise, St. Honore
rests here. He is the patron saint of
bakers and pastry chefs. There are many
streets named St. Honore after him, not to mention patisseries and boulangeries
all over the world. One of my favorite
bakeries named St. Honore is in Portland Oregon.
I have a personal encounter with St Honore that makes
knowing his relics are nearby all the much sweeter!! I found a recipe in a library book for the St.
Honore cake; a delicious confection of several types of pastry and crèmes. It is assembled as a sweet pastry dough base,
rimmed with cream puff pastry. Little
cream puffs circle the base to form a space to hold the pastry cream in the center
of the cake. The cream puffs are dipped
in caramel and spun caramel tops the center pastry cream.
A notice comes home from my son’s new school: Donations needed for the cake raffle fund
raiser. I decide there is no better time
to break out the St. Honore cake recipe and make it for the raffle! I spent hours in the kitchen; back and
forth between the multiple recipes to make one cake (this cake would delight
Escoffier to see all the cross references between recipes!). Finally the cake was ready and
assembled. I dropped the cake off with
my young son at school that morning- all the oohs and aahs were almost worth
the time spent. But what I really wanted
was for my son to win an equal confection at the raffle. Much to my surprise and not to mention
disappointment, he comes home with a small plate of slice and bake
cookies! So now I feel I have a special
connection with this saint, born of a love for all things from the kitchen.
St Sernin Basilica, Toulouse France
St Saturnin or Sernin was the first bishop of Toulouse. He was martyred in 250 CE by having his feet
tied to a bull and dragged through the streets. St Sylvius, then bishop of Toulouse began
the construction of the first church at this location at the end of the 4th
century. This church was conveniently
located along the major pilgrimage route from Arles to Santiago de
Compostela. This site grew in
importance after a major donation of relics from Charlemagne between 768 and
800. By the 11th century a
newer, much larger church was begun, as the existing facility was too small the
handle the crowds.
Today the Basilica still houses many relics and works of
art. Much to my surprise, St. Honore
rests here. He is the patron saint of
bakers and pastry chefs. There are many
streets named St. Honore after him, not to mention patisseries and boulangeries
all over the world. One of my favorite
bakeries named St. Honore is in Portland Oregon.
I have a personal encounter with St Honore that makes
knowing his relics are nearby all the much sweeter!! I found a recipe in a library book for the St.
Honore cake; a delicious confection of several types of pastry and crèmes. It is assembled as a sweet pastry dough base,
rimmed with cream puff pastry. Little
cream puffs circle the base to form a space to hold the pastry cream in the center
of the cake. The cream puffs are dipped
in caramel and spun caramel tops the center pastry cream.
A notice comes home from my son’s new school: Donations needed for the cake raffle fund
raiser. I decide there is no better time
to break out the St. Honore cake recipe and make it for the raffle! I spent hours in the kitchen; back and
forth between the multiple recipes to make one cake (this cake would delight
Escoffier to see all the cross references between recipes!). Finally the cake was ready and
assembled. I dropped the cake off with
my young son at school that morning- all the oohs and aahs were almost worth
the time spent. But what I really wanted
was for my son to win an equal confection at the raffle. Much to my surprise and not to mention
disappointment, he comes home with a small plate of slice and bake
cookies! So now I feel I have a special
connection with this saint, born of a love for all things from the kitchen.
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
Week 1, June 10-16, 2012
Just arrived. Getting settled. It is a bit of an adjustment, but not too difficult, other than being limited by my lack of French language skills. Weather is cool and periods of rain, but nothing too difficult to handle.
We have rented bikes for the week from the Velo Stations. It is the best option for getting around. You can have the bike for 30 minutes without an additional charge, the only catch is, you need to find an empty spot at your destination so you can park the bike. Yesterday, while trying to get to the Musee des Augustins, the bike rack was full. We had to ride around to other stations to find an open spot. It took looking at 6 stations to find 2 spots on the rack. A little bit of a hassle, as the traffic was getting thick, and earlier in the day I witnessed a woman on a motorbike getting hit from behind by a bus. Needless to say, I took my chances on the sidewalk a few times when it seemed the better of the 2 choices. Only one person bothered to tell me that I did not belong on the sidewalk!
www.augustins.org
We have rented bikes for the week from the Velo Stations. It is the best option for getting around. You can have the bike for 30 minutes without an additional charge, the only catch is, you need to find an empty spot at your destination so you can park the bike. Yesterday, while trying to get to the Musee des Augustins, the bike rack was full. We had to ride around to other stations to find an open spot. It took looking at 6 stations to find 2 spots on the rack. A little bit of a hassle, as the traffic was getting thick, and earlier in the day I witnessed a woman on a motorbike getting hit from behind by a bus. Needless to say, I took my chances on the sidewalk a few times when it seemed the better of the 2 choices. Only one person bothered to tell me that I did not belong on the sidewalk!
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