Wednesday, October 31, 2012
Segovia Spain, Fall 2012
Back when Celts dominated Spain, Segovia was a settlement. The Romans took over the village and in the end of the first century built an amazing aqueduct. The aqueduct stretches 818 meters, and is built with 25,000 granite blocks and not a speck of mortar. Later the Arabs ruled Spain, and it is thought that everyone abandoned Segovia. After Alfonso VI took Toledo back from the Arabs, Christians began to resettle in Segovia. The height of prominence for Segovia came during the Middle Ages. Segovia’s importance was related to wool, textiles and its location on the trade route. After this time period, it began a long decline, but has stabilized and remains important mainly for tourism, agriculture and education.
The Castle Alcazar seems to hang off the edge of a ledge over the river valley below. Recent digging on the grounds reveals stones dating back to Celtic and Roman times. Historical documentation places a fortress on the current location in 1122. This fortress became a favorite residence of the Kings of Castile. In the 16th century Alcazar served as a prison for the next 200 years until becoming the Royal School of Artillery in 1764. A fire devastated the structure, but it was rebuilt to what we see today. Currently Alcazar is a museum for the military and has examples of weaponry dating back to the time of knights in shining armor. The romantic setting and look of Alcazar is thought to have been one of the castles inspiring Walt Disney in creating Cinderella’s castle.
Another dominating presence in Segovia is the Cathedral. The Cathedral of Segovia was the last major gothic building built in Spain. It is considered a masterpiece of Renaissance Gothic Architecture. The structure was started in 1525 and completed in 1768. To best appreciate how the Cathedral’s vastness and how it dominates the town go to the Alcazar and look back. From that view, you can also see the town walls and appreciate Segovia’s isolation against the landscape.
From Toulouse France, you can get an EasyJet flight to Madrid Spain for less than it costs you to drive there, and probably less than you would spend on dinner out. So it makes sense to skip driving, give up the dinner out and go to Madrid. From Madrid, a metro ride takes you to the train station and a high speed train gets you to Segovia in 30 minutes. Segovia is worth a day trip.
The Castle Alcazar seems to hang off the edge of a ledge over the river valley below. Recent digging on the grounds reveals stones dating back to Celtic and Roman times. Historical documentation places a fortress on the current location in 1122. This fortress became a favorite residence of the Kings of Castile. In the 16th century Alcazar served as a prison for the next 200 years until becoming the Royal School of Artillery in 1764. A fire devastated the structure, but it was rebuilt to what we see today. Currently Alcazar is a museum for the military and has examples of weaponry dating back to the time of knights in shining armor. The romantic setting and look of Alcazar is thought to have been one of the castles inspiring Walt Disney in creating Cinderella’s castle.
Another dominating presence in Segovia is the Cathedral. The Cathedral of Segovia was the last major gothic building built in Spain. It is considered a masterpiece of Renaissance Gothic Architecture. The structure was started in 1525 and completed in 1768. To best appreciate how the Cathedral’s vastness and how it dominates the town go to the Alcazar and look back. From that view, you can also see the town walls and appreciate Segovia’s isolation against the landscape.
From Toulouse France, you can get an EasyJet flight to Madrid Spain for less than it costs you to drive there, and probably less than you would spend on dinner out. So it makes sense to skip driving, give up the dinner out and go to Madrid. From Madrid, a metro ride takes you to the train station and a high speed train gets you to Segovia in 30 minutes. Segovia is worth a day trip.
Friday, October 26, 2012
La Bellota
For those of you who have known me for a while, you know I have had an obsession with ham for the past several years. Not just any ham, but a special Spanish ham, Jamon Iberico to be exact. I am so obsessed that I have asked people (some of them actual strangers to me) if they know anyone who might be willing to raise a pig for me. Of course it has to be the right kind of pig kept under the right circumstances, fed a very special diet and then the ham part comes next. This obsession with Spanish ham came long before I knew I’d be living right next door to Spain. It is a dream come true and EasyJet made my dream a reality! With a one way ticket to Madrid less than 25 euro, I went to Madrid and Segovia, and more recently a trip to Bilbao. I ate ham until I couldn’t eat any more, ham at every meal for days!
So, what is so special about the ham? For one thing it is very hard to come by in the United States, and very expensive. It is expensive not only in the USA, but everywhere. Breeding is important; it must be at least 3/4th black Iberian pig by heritage. The pig is raised in the south of Spain and parts of Portugal. Hams from certain areas have their own DOC much like a wine from a certain region. The entire town of Jubugo Spain is devoted to the ham, and its biggest producer is 5J Sanchez Romero Carvajal. We had dinner at a restaurant serving this ham, and I can vouch for the quality!
It is the lifestyle of the pig matters. The Bellota, the most expensive of these hams must be free range, live in an oak forest and for its final months of life, eat the acorns that fall from the trees. The exercise and diet provide the special flavor of the meat and the fat marbling of the leg. The Bellota ham is then cured for 36 months. Hams of lesser quality are fed differently, are kept in a pasture and may not be aged as long. The method of feeding, keeping and curing the pig helps to determine the price; however, any of these special hams are superior to any regular ham.
Today I discovered that a farm not far from Toulouse France raises these tasty pigs and has a shop in my local market. I had a few tastes today to make sure it was good, and since it was, I bought a pork shoulder roast for tomorrow’s dinner.
You too can get Spanish hams. Many varieties have been available in the United States since 2007, and can cost over $100 per pound. Small servings of 50 to 100 grams will give you the taste of the ham without having to travel all the way to Spain. Of course there are ham stands designed for holding the ham while carving. I recently checked the price of the ham stand at several stores. There are discount models available for about 29 euros, and the price goes up from there. The most expensive model was well over 4300 euros! But if your ham costs upwards of 200 euro a kilo, then a 4300 euro holder might the right choice for you!
So, what is so special about the ham? For one thing it is very hard to come by in the United States, and very expensive. It is expensive not only in the USA, but everywhere. Breeding is important; it must be at least 3/4th black Iberian pig by heritage. The pig is raised in the south of Spain and parts of Portugal. Hams from certain areas have their own DOC much like a wine from a certain region. The entire town of Jubugo Spain is devoted to the ham, and its biggest producer is 5J Sanchez Romero Carvajal. We had dinner at a restaurant serving this ham, and I can vouch for the quality!
It is the lifestyle of the pig matters. The Bellota, the most expensive of these hams must be free range, live in an oak forest and for its final months of life, eat the acorns that fall from the trees. The exercise and diet provide the special flavor of the meat and the fat marbling of the leg. The Bellota ham is then cured for 36 months. Hams of lesser quality are fed differently, are kept in a pasture and may not be aged as long. The method of feeding, keeping and curing the pig helps to determine the price; however, any of these special hams are superior to any regular ham.
Today I discovered that a farm not far from Toulouse France raises these tasty pigs and has a shop in my local market. I had a few tastes today to make sure it was good, and since it was, I bought a pork shoulder roast for tomorrow’s dinner.
You too can get Spanish hams. Many varieties have been available in the United States since 2007, and can cost over $100 per pound. Small servings of 50 to 100 grams will give you the taste of the ham without having to travel all the way to Spain. Of course there are ham stands designed for holding the ham while carving. I recently checked the price of the ham stand at several stores. There are discount models available for about 29 euros, and the price goes up from there. The most expensive model was well over 4300 euros! But if your ham costs upwards of 200 euro a kilo, then a 4300 euro holder might the right choice for you!
Thursday, October 18, 2012
St. Antonin-Noble-Val and Najac
We drove from Bruniquel towards the north east through another “Most Beautiful Village” which is called St. Antonin-Noble-Val. An ancient abbey on which the corner of the town now stands was founded in the 9th century to honor St. Antonin. St. Antonin converted several French areas to Christianity, but when he returned to his home town of Pamiers, he was met with resistance. St. Antonin was beheaded and his remains were tossed into the Ariege River. Legend has it that angles came from heaven and swooped up his corpse. The angles put his body on a boat which floated down several rivers, eventually making its way through the Aveyron Gorges. His relics were gathered up and put in a shrine that is now lost to history. Simon de Montfort took over the town in 1212 during the Albigensian crusade. Later, in the 14th century, the town was conquered by the English. Subsequently, the town was damaged during the Wars of Religion in the late 16th century and finally restored by King Louis XIV. Other than being a location for a movie called “Charlotte Gray” starring Cate Blanchette, the town is just very pretty.
St. Antonin-Nobel-Val sits directly on the river Aveyron, and bridge crossing brings you into town. The best place to photograph the town is from the bridge or across the river in the park. St. Antonin-Nobel-Val appears to be a quiet town that could have plenty of tourists in peak season. We arrived on a Saturday right before noon, so we were able to get to the tourist office before closing. After a stroll around town, we lunched in the market center. From there we made our way to Najac, another most beautiful village in France.
Najac is a very remote town that used to be famous for its ham. Now it has become a location for many British, Dutch and Northern French to have a second home. The Chateau is the most prominent feature of the town. Historically, the Chateau was built as a fortress. The people in the area were sympathetic to the Cathars. After the Cathars were driven out of the area during the Abligensian Crusade, the villagers were forced at their own expense to build the village church. The town was on the frontier of the Hundred Years War with England and frequently changed hands between the French and the British. Not much else has happened in this town, plus all of the renovation for people with second homes so it remains in great shape. The views are spectacular and it was a great place to end a day of sight seeing.
St. Antonin-Nobel-Val sits directly on the river Aveyron, and bridge crossing brings you into town. The best place to photograph the town is from the bridge or across the river in the park. St. Antonin-Nobel-Val appears to be a quiet town that could have plenty of tourists in peak season. We arrived on a Saturday right before noon, so we were able to get to the tourist office before closing. After a stroll around town, we lunched in the market center. From there we made our way to Najac, another most beautiful village in France.
Najac is a very remote town that used to be famous for its ham. Now it has become a location for many British, Dutch and Northern French to have a second home. The Chateau is the most prominent feature of the town. Historically, the Chateau was built as a fortress. The people in the area were sympathetic to the Cathars. After the Cathars were driven out of the area during the Abligensian Crusade, the villagers were forced at their own expense to build the village church. The town was on the frontier of the Hundred Years War with England and frequently changed hands between the French and the British. Not much else has happened in this town, plus all of the renovation for people with second homes so it remains in great shape. The views are spectacular and it was a great place to end a day of sight seeing.
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
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