Notre Dame de la Daurade
View of altar
Side altar
Virgin Noir
View of main organ
Main organ
Chancel organ
Thursday, August 30, 2012
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Basilique Notre Dame de la Daurade
Basilique Notre Dame de la Daurade in Toulouse was founded in 410 AD. Romans still ruled the area and Toulouse was one of their major cities in the south of Gaul. The Emperor Honorius allowed the temple of Apollo to be converted into a Christian Church. The early Christians used the temple until sometime in the 6th century when construction on a new church began. It is a bit unclear what happened to the temple, if it was somehow incorporated into the new structure or razed and the new church built over top. In 431, the Church Council of Ephese initiates formal devotion to the Virgin Mary. It is possible that the drive to build a new church on this site is related to the declarations of the Council of Ephese. Once the church is built, there are references to a black statue of the Virgin Mary. There are 44 other churches in France with a Virgin Noir. The new church is decorated all over with golden mosaics, hence the name: Notre Dame de la Daurade; deaurata is the Latin word for gold.
Notre Dame de la Daurade is located on the banks of the Garonne River. During the 9th century a group of Benedictine monks build a monastery attached to the church. Over the years, the monks have some difficulties working together, many leave the monastery, and the church falls into disrepair. The Garonne River, fed by snow melts in the Pyrenees floods frequently and quite devastatingly. The City of Toulouse makes a major project of improving the riverfront by building quays and flood walls for the protection of the citizens. This construction includes the area of the Notre Dame de la Daurade. A total renovation of the church begins in 1761. Using information from various sources, I determined that the building had to move to make way for the quays. The new structure incorporates several of the old walls, and the building now faces the river. Work on the church was interrupted by the French Revolution and the few remaining monks abandon the monastery. After the Revolution, the city of Toulouse rents the monastery properties using them for a cotton factory and then a tobacco factory. Today the buildings are part of the Fine Arts University.
Worship at the church stops during the Revolution and many of the treasures of the church are hidden for safe keeping, including the statue of the Virgin Noir. Once the Revolution is over and the right to worship is restored (1795), the statue of the Virgin is moved back to the church. The fervent devotion to the Virgin alarms the administrators of Toulouse so greatly, that the statue is taken from the church and burned in a public display in the Square of the Capitole. In 1807, a new statue is commissioned and constructed based upon paintings and other recollections of the original statue. Today the statue is given a special place in a side altar. The garments the statue wears are changed according to the church liturgical calendar. Haute couture designers and others have donated the wardrobe for the statue. The history of this statue as mentioned dates back to the 5th century. During difficulty times in the city, the monks would put the statue on a palate and lead a procession through the city to drive out the evil. When the statue was rebuilt, it was dedicated to expectant mothers and a safe delivery. Today, this devotion remains with recipients of the blessings acknowledging their good fortune by donations and inscribing special marble plaques that line the walls of the church.
During the reconstruction of the church, the original organ was sold to the cathedral in Pamiers. In 1860 the move to get a new organ accelerated. Parts from various 18th century organs were obtained, rebuilt and finally restored to a great masterpiece. Work was completed in 1889. This organ is listed as a historical monument in 1979, and was restored again in 1990. During the original work on this large organ, there is a change in the music in the church. Choirs become a more popular part of the church services. Large pipe organs overpower the choir, so smaller Chancel Organs located near the choir become more popular in churches. By 1879, Notre Dame de la Daurade is the only church in Toulouse without a Chancel Organ! So the church decides to buy one. Theodore Puget and Son, famous organ makers of the time are commissioned to build this organ. The original cost of the organ was 12,000 francs for the parts and 1,500 francs for the organ case. The Puget family maintained this organ until 1960. This organ was restored in 1991-2, and is considered the most interesting Chancel Organ in Touluose.
Notre Dame de la Daurade is one of several very early Christian Churches in Toulouse. The prior post was about St. Sernin, which is located not too far away. The history of the area is inseparable from the history of the Church. Many of the churches, monasteries and convents are no longer standing, but artifacts are kept in the Museum of the Augustine’s. Of the ones remaining, some are not in great shape; others have been remade into concert halls or galleries.
Notre Dame de la Daurade is located on the banks of the Garonne River. During the 9th century a group of Benedictine monks build a monastery attached to the church. Over the years, the monks have some difficulties working together, many leave the monastery, and the church falls into disrepair. The Garonne River, fed by snow melts in the Pyrenees floods frequently and quite devastatingly. The City of Toulouse makes a major project of improving the riverfront by building quays and flood walls for the protection of the citizens. This construction includes the area of the Notre Dame de la Daurade. A total renovation of the church begins in 1761. Using information from various sources, I determined that the building had to move to make way for the quays. The new structure incorporates several of the old walls, and the building now faces the river. Work on the church was interrupted by the French Revolution and the few remaining monks abandon the monastery. After the Revolution, the city of Toulouse rents the monastery properties using them for a cotton factory and then a tobacco factory. Today the buildings are part of the Fine Arts University.
Worship at the church stops during the Revolution and many of the treasures of the church are hidden for safe keeping, including the statue of the Virgin Noir. Once the Revolution is over and the right to worship is restored (1795), the statue of the Virgin is moved back to the church. The fervent devotion to the Virgin alarms the administrators of Toulouse so greatly, that the statue is taken from the church and burned in a public display in the Square of the Capitole. In 1807, a new statue is commissioned and constructed based upon paintings and other recollections of the original statue. Today the statue is given a special place in a side altar. The garments the statue wears are changed according to the church liturgical calendar. Haute couture designers and others have donated the wardrobe for the statue. The history of this statue as mentioned dates back to the 5th century. During difficulty times in the city, the monks would put the statue on a palate and lead a procession through the city to drive out the evil. When the statue was rebuilt, it was dedicated to expectant mothers and a safe delivery. Today, this devotion remains with recipients of the blessings acknowledging their good fortune by donations and inscribing special marble plaques that line the walls of the church.
During the reconstruction of the church, the original organ was sold to the cathedral in Pamiers. In 1860 the move to get a new organ accelerated. Parts from various 18th century organs were obtained, rebuilt and finally restored to a great masterpiece. Work was completed in 1889. This organ is listed as a historical monument in 1979, and was restored again in 1990. During the original work on this large organ, there is a change in the music in the church. Choirs become a more popular part of the church services. Large pipe organs overpower the choir, so smaller Chancel Organs located near the choir become more popular in churches. By 1879, Notre Dame de la Daurade is the only church in Toulouse without a Chancel Organ! So the church decides to buy one. Theodore Puget and Son, famous organ makers of the time are commissioned to build this organ. The original cost of the organ was 12,000 francs for the parts and 1,500 francs for the organ case. The Puget family maintained this organ until 1960. This organ was restored in 1991-2, and is considered the most interesting Chancel Organ in Touluose.
Notre Dame de la Daurade is one of several very early Christian Churches in Toulouse. The prior post was about St. Sernin, which is located not too far away. The history of the area is inseparable from the history of the Church. Many of the churches, monasteries and convents are no longer standing, but artifacts are kept in the Museum of the Augustine’s. Of the ones remaining, some are not in great shape; others have been remade into concert halls or galleries.
Friday, August 24, 2012
Basilica St. Sernin
St. Sernin from the back
Entry door faceing Rue de Taur
Main isle
Side isles built for pilgrims
Entry to the Crypt
A Saint's relics in the crypt
St. Honore's relics
St. Sernin's relics
Magnificent pipe organ
14 century wood carvings, hands missing
Basilica St. Sernin
Sernin is the Occitan language adaption of the name Saturnin. Since I am in the Occitan area of France, I will refer to Saturnin as Sernin-the way it is done here. Both are correct, and you will find them interchanged frequently.
The first martyr of Toulouse was their first bishop; Sernin. He was a Christian who lived in the first half of the 3rd century. The legend goes that Roman priests were unable to hear their oracles any time Sernin passed near their altars. Sernin passes by the alters which particularly angered the Roman priests that day. The priests apprehend Sernin and tried to force him to perform a sacrifice to their images. Angered by Sernin’s refusal, the priests tie Sernin’s feet to the back legs of a bull. The bull dragged Sernin through the streets of Toulouse until the rope broke. Loyal followers of Sernin gather up his parts and bury him outside of town. To this day much of the imagery and names of buildings and streets of Toulouse reflect this early history. The street where the bull reported to have stopped is located at the old north gate of the city, and has been called is Rue du Taur for centuries. Thia street ends at the main entrance to the Basilica St. Sernin.
The history of the Basilica St. Sernin follows the early history of the Christian church of Toulouse. As more of the citizens of Toulouse became Christian, they honored St. Sernin by building a wooden structure over his grave. A church now stands on this site: Notre-Dame du Taur (Our Lady of the Bull). As time went on, many early Christian pilgrims came to visit the site. In those times, people attempted to atone for their earthly sins by making pilgrimages and doing other good works. To accommodate the masses of pilgrims arriving, the bishop of Toulouse began building a larger basilica at the end of Rue de Taur. This is now the 4th century and the new basilica is underway. The relics of St. Sernin are relocated to this new location named the Basilica St. Stenin. After a generous donation of relics by Charlemagne in the 8th century the Basilica continued to grow in popularity among pilgrims.
During the 9th century in the Spanish town of Santiago Compostela miracle happened leading to the discovery of the tomb of St. James the Greater. Pilgrims from all over Europe begin to flock to this town in the northwestern part of Spain. St. Sernin, already a destination for pilgrims, becomes a stopping point on the way west to the cathedral of Santiago Compostela. There are four pilgrim routes across the Pyrenees into Spain. The most southerly route starts in the Rhone Valley and was called Via Tolosana because the route came through Toulouse. In 1998 this particular route was inscribed as one of the UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites to define the path of the pilgrims through France into Spain.
The Basilica St Sernin which was started in the late 11th century was built specifically to accommodate the large number of pilgrims. It is the largest Romanesque church left standing in the world. I recently returned to see the church. Knowing a bit more of the local history now, I was interested in a slower review of the artifacts. I went with a friend who is similarly interested in what the French call “patrimoine”. Roughly translated it means the cultural wealth and history of the area or country. It describes and includes the land, buildings, art and all things included in the history of the area.
The interesting sites of the church include the main doorway, which open directly onto Rue du Taur. The doorway sculptures are described in detail and noted on plaques as you enter. Once inside, the sheer size of the church is astounding. Today, the side isles are used for tourists to use and not interrupt the services, just as in years gone by. Pilgrims are still working their way to Santiago Spain through Toulouse. An additional fee permits you access to the Crypt. This is where the relics of the Saints are kept. During the time of the French Revolution, many of the artifacts where hidden away and some have been secured in other locations to be preserved. The tomb of St. Sernin underwent a major renovation in the 18th century and has a bit of a different look than the somber Romanesque character of the majority of the church. The day that I went, a volunteer of the church was giving a guided tour. These tours are infrequent and the only way that you can get up onto the higher level. There was not much of a view, as the upper level was built for the height and to access windows to let in more light.
The bell tower, the highest in the city can be seen from many locations. At night it is lite up with colored lights that change over the course of the evening. The organ and choir stalls are beautiful examples of craftsmanship of the time periods in which they were constructed. The first organ was installed in the 17th century and underwent major renovations in the 19th century by Aristide Cavaille-Coll. Most recently, restoration work to remove old plaster revealed 11th century frescos that are in good condition. The church is open to the public, but not everyone respects the value of the site. We were looking for the wood carvings of the Apostles from the 14th century. In the brochure they were to be found at the bottom of the steps in the crypt. We were told that the statues were moved to a more secure display location because several of the Apostles hands were cut off and stolen. I noted that the printing of the brochure was within the past 10-15 years, since it lists an e-mail address. So if anyone who reads this blog knows about the hands, please help them be returned.
The first martyr of Toulouse was their first bishop; Sernin. He was a Christian who lived in the first half of the 3rd century. The legend goes that Roman priests were unable to hear their oracles any time Sernin passed near their altars. Sernin passes by the alters which particularly angered the Roman priests that day. The priests apprehend Sernin and tried to force him to perform a sacrifice to their images. Angered by Sernin’s refusal, the priests tie Sernin’s feet to the back legs of a bull. The bull dragged Sernin through the streets of Toulouse until the rope broke. Loyal followers of Sernin gather up his parts and bury him outside of town. To this day much of the imagery and names of buildings and streets of Toulouse reflect this early history. The street where the bull reported to have stopped is located at the old north gate of the city, and has been called is Rue du Taur for centuries. Thia street ends at the main entrance to the Basilica St. Sernin.
The history of the Basilica St. Sernin follows the early history of the Christian church of Toulouse. As more of the citizens of Toulouse became Christian, they honored St. Sernin by building a wooden structure over his grave. A church now stands on this site: Notre-Dame du Taur (Our Lady of the Bull). As time went on, many early Christian pilgrims came to visit the site. In those times, people attempted to atone for their earthly sins by making pilgrimages and doing other good works. To accommodate the masses of pilgrims arriving, the bishop of Toulouse began building a larger basilica at the end of Rue de Taur. This is now the 4th century and the new basilica is underway. The relics of St. Sernin are relocated to this new location named the Basilica St. Stenin. After a generous donation of relics by Charlemagne in the 8th century the Basilica continued to grow in popularity among pilgrims.
During the 9th century in the Spanish town of Santiago Compostela miracle happened leading to the discovery of the tomb of St. James the Greater. Pilgrims from all over Europe begin to flock to this town in the northwestern part of Spain. St. Sernin, already a destination for pilgrims, becomes a stopping point on the way west to the cathedral of Santiago Compostela. There are four pilgrim routes across the Pyrenees into Spain. The most southerly route starts in the Rhone Valley and was called Via Tolosana because the route came through Toulouse. In 1998 this particular route was inscribed as one of the UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites to define the path of the pilgrims through France into Spain.
The Basilica St Sernin which was started in the late 11th century was built specifically to accommodate the large number of pilgrims. It is the largest Romanesque church left standing in the world. I recently returned to see the church. Knowing a bit more of the local history now, I was interested in a slower review of the artifacts. I went with a friend who is similarly interested in what the French call “patrimoine”. Roughly translated it means the cultural wealth and history of the area or country. It describes and includes the land, buildings, art and all things included in the history of the area.
The interesting sites of the church include the main doorway, which open directly onto Rue du Taur. The doorway sculptures are described in detail and noted on plaques as you enter. Once inside, the sheer size of the church is astounding. Today, the side isles are used for tourists to use and not interrupt the services, just as in years gone by. Pilgrims are still working their way to Santiago Spain through Toulouse. An additional fee permits you access to the Crypt. This is where the relics of the Saints are kept. During the time of the French Revolution, many of the artifacts where hidden away and some have been secured in other locations to be preserved. The tomb of St. Sernin underwent a major renovation in the 18th century and has a bit of a different look than the somber Romanesque character of the majority of the church. The day that I went, a volunteer of the church was giving a guided tour. These tours are infrequent and the only way that you can get up onto the higher level. There was not much of a view, as the upper level was built for the height and to access windows to let in more light.
The bell tower, the highest in the city can be seen from many locations. At night it is lite up with colored lights that change over the course of the evening. The organ and choir stalls are beautiful examples of craftsmanship of the time periods in which they were constructed. The first organ was installed in the 17th century and underwent major renovations in the 19th century by Aristide Cavaille-Coll. Most recently, restoration work to remove old plaster revealed 11th century frescos that are in good condition. The church is open to the public, but not everyone respects the value of the site. We were looking for the wood carvings of the Apostles from the 14th century. In the brochure they were to be found at the bottom of the steps in the crypt. We were told that the statues were moved to a more secure display location because several of the Apostles hands were cut off and stolen. I noted that the printing of the brochure was within the past 10-15 years, since it lists an e-mail address. So if anyone who reads this blog knows about the hands, please help them be returned.
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
La Canicule and the Pyrenees
Cauterets- Pont d'Espange
Cauterets- Pont d'Espange
Cauterets- Pont d'Espange
Cauterets- Pont d'Espange
Road to top of Col du Tourmalet
Top of Col du Tourmalet
Top of Col du Tourmalet
Top of Col du Tourmalet
Down from Col du Tourmalet
Top of Col d'Aspin
Down from Col d'Aspin
The Road to Cheese
La Canicule and the Pyrenees
La Canicule is a French word for a heat wave. Technically speaking, overnight temperatures do not drop below 20 degrees C and day time temperatures are above 33 degrees C. This causes heat to build and it is just plain miserable. Most of the northern hemisphere has suffered from La Canicule this summer, but this was not the first time in history. Back in the Roman times it was believed that hot weather was a result of the star Sirius rising and setting at the same time as the sun, which it does between July 24th and August 24th. The Romans knew that other events followed in this heat; a worsening in the condition of the water supply, more dogs got rabies; people succumbed to the effects of heat…. Hence the term dog days of summer.
La Canicule in France has been responsible for a significant amount of death over the centuries. Death toll for the years: 1636: 500,000 deaths, 1718: 700,000 deaths. As recent as 2003 there were 15,000 deaths in France and 20,000 in Italy attributed to the summer’s La Canicule.
The effects of La Canicule on the grape crop can vary from exceptional vintages for vines with deep roots and a vintner who knows what to do or disaster if the leaves burn up and the fruit dries out too soon. Due to the late La Canicule this year, there is no way to know what will happen. The grapes may have been far enough along to resist the heat or they may have dried out too much, so keep your eye out for the 2012 vintage and see how it goes.
Faced with the thought of another weekend in the city with no air-conditioning, we decided to escape the heat. I spent the better part of the morning last week looking at weather reports of the region to find cooler weather, especially overnight. The lack of air-conditioning and not living in a stone castle makes the hot nights here difficult. This past weekend, the area of Luz-St-Sauveur and Cauterets matched the weather profile. Instead of a day time high of 100 F, it would be 90 F. Overnight lows instead of mid-70s F would be 54 F. Both of these towns are deep in the Pyrenees Mountains.
The Pyrenees Mountains are essentially the boarder between France and Spain. They are not as grand as the Alp’s, but are steep and high with few ways to get through them. The Pyrenees range was formed roughly 55 million years ago when the micro continent of Iberia slammed up against the European plate. Eventually they fused together. The Pyrenees are 430 meters long running from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The mountain range is lower at the coasts and higher in the middle, steeper on the French side than the Spanish side. Few roads pass through the mountains, 3 using tunnels and 4 high mountain passes that are generally closed for snow in the winter and spring. Historically, some of these mountain routes were used by invading and defending armies and during medieval times many pilgrims crossed the Pyrenees.
Religious pilgrims still travel the ancient routes through France to get to Spain to complete their journey to Santiago de Compostela. Santiago de Composetla was where a miracle occurred in the 9th century revealing the location of St James the Greater’s tomb. He was the Apostle of Jesus who reportedly traveled to Spain on his mission. Alfonso II built a sanctuary at the site of the tomb and Santiago became the 3rd most important Christian site after Jerusalem and Rome.
Modern warriors of the cycling type use this region to prove themselves. Le Tour de France goes through the area near Luz-St-Sauveur climbing multiple peaks in one day’s ride. We journeyed to the top of Col du Tourmalet by car, and there I concluded the real hero of Le Tour is the man in the polka dot jersey! I had a death grip on the car door handle as we were going 80 km/hr on the downhill side of the mountain. I just witnessed a young llama slip on the edge of the road and almost go over. The road so narrow with hair pin turns so tight, if you missed your mark slightly you would certainly plunge to your untimely end. A cyclist passed us on the back side of the mountain. For him the reward was not to pedal at all on the way down.
The hiking is strenuous, as the mountains are steep and the air is thin. But the views are fabulous. However, 10 degrees F did not make much of a difference when it came to cooling off during the day. Hiking was miserably hot and much of the trails are not wooded, so the sun is bright and strong. The evening did cool off and the towns we passed through had nice restaurants. All was not lost; we know for sure where we will go for our winter ski excursions.
La Canicule in France has been responsible for a significant amount of death over the centuries. Death toll for the years: 1636: 500,000 deaths, 1718: 700,000 deaths. As recent as 2003 there were 15,000 deaths in France and 20,000 in Italy attributed to the summer’s La Canicule.
The effects of La Canicule on the grape crop can vary from exceptional vintages for vines with deep roots and a vintner who knows what to do or disaster if the leaves burn up and the fruit dries out too soon. Due to the late La Canicule this year, there is no way to know what will happen. The grapes may have been far enough along to resist the heat or they may have dried out too much, so keep your eye out for the 2012 vintage and see how it goes.
Faced with the thought of another weekend in the city with no air-conditioning, we decided to escape the heat. I spent the better part of the morning last week looking at weather reports of the region to find cooler weather, especially overnight. The lack of air-conditioning and not living in a stone castle makes the hot nights here difficult. This past weekend, the area of Luz-St-Sauveur and Cauterets matched the weather profile. Instead of a day time high of 100 F, it would be 90 F. Overnight lows instead of mid-70s F would be 54 F. Both of these towns are deep in the Pyrenees Mountains.
The Pyrenees Mountains are essentially the boarder between France and Spain. They are not as grand as the Alp’s, but are steep and high with few ways to get through them. The Pyrenees range was formed roughly 55 million years ago when the micro continent of Iberia slammed up against the European plate. Eventually they fused together. The Pyrenees are 430 meters long running from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The mountain range is lower at the coasts and higher in the middle, steeper on the French side than the Spanish side. Few roads pass through the mountains, 3 using tunnels and 4 high mountain passes that are generally closed for snow in the winter and spring. Historically, some of these mountain routes were used by invading and defending armies and during medieval times many pilgrims crossed the Pyrenees.
Religious pilgrims still travel the ancient routes through France to get to Spain to complete their journey to Santiago de Compostela. Santiago de Composetla was where a miracle occurred in the 9th century revealing the location of St James the Greater’s tomb. He was the Apostle of Jesus who reportedly traveled to Spain on his mission. Alfonso II built a sanctuary at the site of the tomb and Santiago became the 3rd most important Christian site after Jerusalem and Rome.
Modern warriors of the cycling type use this region to prove themselves. Le Tour de France goes through the area near Luz-St-Sauveur climbing multiple peaks in one day’s ride. We journeyed to the top of Col du Tourmalet by car, and there I concluded the real hero of Le Tour is the man in the polka dot jersey! I had a death grip on the car door handle as we were going 80 km/hr on the downhill side of the mountain. I just witnessed a young llama slip on the edge of the road and almost go over. The road so narrow with hair pin turns so tight, if you missed your mark slightly you would certainly plunge to your untimely end. A cyclist passed us on the back side of the mountain. For him the reward was not to pedal at all on the way down.
The hiking is strenuous, as the mountains are steep and the air is thin. But the views are fabulous. However, 10 degrees F did not make much of a difference when it came to cooling off during the day. Hiking was miserably hot and much of the trails are not wooded, so the sun is bright and strong. The evening did cool off and the towns we passed through had nice restaurants. All was not lost; we know for sure where we will go for our winter ski excursions.
Friday, August 17, 2012
Brussels, Belgium, Summer 2012
Artist's sketch of Grand Place 1695
Grand Place Kings's House
Grand Place Guild Halls
Grand Place Swan House
Grand Place Town Hall
St Michael's Cathedral
Royal Palace
Royal Palace
Ballroom, Royal Palace
Giant Brussels Sprout
Cone of Frittes
Brussels Belgium, Summer 2012
Brussels comes from an Old Dutch word for “home in the marsh” and was officially founded in 979. It was a walled city which outgrew its walls, so a second set was built between 1356 and 1383. Much of what we see today was built after the late 17th century. In 1695 French Troops of Louis XIV bombarded and destroyed the city. Since the French did not retain power, the Belgians rapidly rebuilt the city taking only 4 years to complete the major works. Most of the tourist sites are a short distance from each other and can been seen quite quickly in an afternoon stroll.
The Grand Place is a UNESCO world heritage site and contains the major sites of the city. Though mainly rebuilt after the devastation of 1695, there had been a market on that site since 1174. The Grand Place contains: Town Hall, King’s House, Swan House, Chocolate Shops and Guild Halls that house many restaurants. The noteworthy chocolatiers in the square are Godiva, Neuhaus, Galler and Leonidas, all being fairly equal to me the non-chocolate connoisseur.
St Michael’s Cathedral, built from 1200-1500 AD is just a short walk from the Grand Place. We were unable to go inside but the outside of the building was quite impressive and large. The Royal Weddings and other events take place here.
Belgium, after gaining its independence from the Netherlands, finds a king, Leopold I to rule them. Leopold I is the visionary for rebuilding the city and makes his mark by bringing rail transportation to the city. It was his son, Leopold II who acquires the Congo region of Africa and uses the wealth acquired from Congo to rebuild Brussels. Leopold II builds the Royal Palace near the existing palace by linking together a row of townhouse mansions with a façade. The Royal Palace is used as the business office of the King, and other stately events. The Royal Palace is only open to visitors during the month of August. Luckily our trip was the first weekend of August and we went on the tour. The interior was impressive, and I have never seen so many chandeliers in one place. The elegance of the Royal Palace is impressive and quite a monument to country.
Across the boulevard from the Royal Palace is the Parc de Bruxelles designed for the people of Belgium in 1776. Commissioned by the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, the rulers of Belgium and also the mother of Marie Antoinette, Parc de Bruxelles was patterned after the gardens at Versailles, France. Empress Maria Theresa was not known to have visited either Brussels or Versailles, but I have! Both parks are beautiful. In the garden there was a sculpture display of giant Brussels sprouts, cones of frittes and huge mussels. The whimsical sculptures, each uniquely decorated where lining the paths through the garden. Traveling through the garden and heading back to the old town, we found ourselves at one of the many art museums. Coincidentally, our hotel had given us entry passes for the Bozar Summer of Photography exhibit.
Every other year the Center for Fine Arts organizes the Summer of Photography art show. The theme this time was Landscape Photography. The display was made up of 160 works by 40 artists from every member country of the EU. The idea was to demonstrate the diversity of the European landscape. The display was divided into regions: northern, central and Mediterranean. The photographs were wonderful and truly gave perspective to the physical differences between the regions. It was a great way to spend the rest of the morning, and it made us ready for lunch.
No trip to Brussels would be complete without mussels and frittes, a great lunch! Belgium is also famous for waffles and beer. You can get both just about anywhere anytime of the day or night. The Belgians say that they eat as heartily as the Germans and as well as the French. I have to agree with that. If you ever have the chance to get there, you must also try the Flemish Beef Stew. We found the most delicious stew at Aux Armes de Brussels. Mussels are pretty standard wherever you go, variations by the steaming sauces, but the stew can be acceptable or superb. At Aux Armes de Brussels you will find superb. The secret, our waiter told us, is using Irish beef and the best Belgian beer you can get. So now you know! Get to Brussels soon before it is all gone.
The Grand Place is a UNESCO world heritage site and contains the major sites of the city. Though mainly rebuilt after the devastation of 1695, there had been a market on that site since 1174. The Grand Place contains: Town Hall, King’s House, Swan House, Chocolate Shops and Guild Halls that house many restaurants. The noteworthy chocolatiers in the square are Godiva, Neuhaus, Galler and Leonidas, all being fairly equal to me the non-chocolate connoisseur.
St Michael’s Cathedral, built from 1200-1500 AD is just a short walk from the Grand Place. We were unable to go inside but the outside of the building was quite impressive and large. The Royal Weddings and other events take place here.
Belgium, after gaining its independence from the Netherlands, finds a king, Leopold I to rule them. Leopold I is the visionary for rebuilding the city and makes his mark by bringing rail transportation to the city. It was his son, Leopold II who acquires the Congo region of Africa and uses the wealth acquired from Congo to rebuild Brussels. Leopold II builds the Royal Palace near the existing palace by linking together a row of townhouse mansions with a façade. The Royal Palace is used as the business office of the King, and other stately events. The Royal Palace is only open to visitors during the month of August. Luckily our trip was the first weekend of August and we went on the tour. The interior was impressive, and I have never seen so many chandeliers in one place. The elegance of the Royal Palace is impressive and quite a monument to country.
Across the boulevard from the Royal Palace is the Parc de Bruxelles designed for the people of Belgium in 1776. Commissioned by the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, the rulers of Belgium and also the mother of Marie Antoinette, Parc de Bruxelles was patterned after the gardens at Versailles, France. Empress Maria Theresa was not known to have visited either Brussels or Versailles, but I have! Both parks are beautiful. In the garden there was a sculpture display of giant Brussels sprouts, cones of frittes and huge mussels. The whimsical sculptures, each uniquely decorated where lining the paths through the garden. Traveling through the garden and heading back to the old town, we found ourselves at one of the many art museums. Coincidentally, our hotel had given us entry passes for the Bozar Summer of Photography exhibit.
Every other year the Center for Fine Arts organizes the Summer of Photography art show. The theme this time was Landscape Photography. The display was made up of 160 works by 40 artists from every member country of the EU. The idea was to demonstrate the diversity of the European landscape. The display was divided into regions: northern, central and Mediterranean. The photographs were wonderful and truly gave perspective to the physical differences between the regions. It was a great way to spend the rest of the morning, and it made us ready for lunch.
No trip to Brussels would be complete without mussels and frittes, a great lunch! Belgium is also famous for waffles and beer. You can get both just about anywhere anytime of the day or night. The Belgians say that they eat as heartily as the Germans and as well as the French. I have to agree with that. If you ever have the chance to get there, you must also try the Flemish Beef Stew. We found the most delicious stew at Aux Armes de Brussels. Mussels are pretty standard wherever you go, variations by the steaming sauces, but the stew can be acceptable or superb. At Aux Armes de Brussels you will find superb. The secret, our waiter told us, is using Irish beef and the best Belgian beer you can get. So now you know! Get to Brussels soon before it is all gone.
Thursday, August 16, 2012
Beer in Belguim
Beer store in Brugge
Beer store in Brussels
Favorite Pub in Brussels
Beer Menu as Delirium Cafe
Glasses for each type of beer
The elusive Westvleteren
Westvleteren in a Delirium Glass
The Kwak in it's glass
Guest Blog: Belgian Beer by Tim Mckee
Recently, we took trip to Brussels, Belgium. While visiting, we did quite a bit of sightseeing and tried different local foods and beer along the way. Great beers are to Belgium as great wine is to France, the varieties are many and all very good. Belgian Strong Ales (BJCP Style 18) otherwise known as Abbey style beers and Sour Ales (BJCP Style 17) are two styles of beer that are unique to Belgium; each with many variations. This post will cover Strong Ale styles and a later post will cover sour Lambics.
Abbey beers come in several major styles, all with rich and unique flavors. All Abbeys use a similar style of yeast that lend a characteristic aroma and flavor to the beer. Each one puts its own stamp on their beer through unique recipes and production methods. The first Strong Ale style is the Belgian Dubbel: darker and a bit sweeter, usually between 6-7% ABV. The second Strong Ale style is the Belgian Tripel: paler, drier and generally between 7-9% ABV. A third style of Abbey beer is the Quadruple: with ABV values ranging from 8-11%, is a bit over the top to my taste.
The most famous and popular of the Abbey style beers are made by Trappist Monks. The monks follow the Rule of St. Benedict; the fundamental tenets are that each monastery must be self- supporting. Monasteries generally use the sale of beer, cheese and bread to achieve these goals. There are 170 active Trappist Monasteries in the world, one of which is close to Cincinnati in Bardstown, KY. Only 7 monasteries actively brew Trappist beer. Of those, 6 are in Belgium and 1 is in Holland. Since the Middle Ages monks have used the profits from the sale of the beer to fund living expenses and upkeep of the Abbeys. All extra profits are donated to charity.
Six of the seven Trappist brands are available for sale in the US market. The 7th and most difficult beer to obtain is Westvleteren. Yearly production of Westvleteren is only 60,000 cases and this amount has not increased since 1946. The monks do not use a distributer and beer is sold only by the case. You must call the abbey at certain times and make a reservation to pick up your beer. Despite being an extremely rare beer, Westvleteren has won a significant following, including being voted as the Best Beer in the World in 2005. Beer rating websites routinely rank it near the top year after year. We had the opportunity to try a ‘Westy 8’ during our trip to Belgium and very much enjoyed it. Westvleteren is a Dubbel style with thick, rich, malty taste and full of plum and fig flavors. At 9 Euro a bottle it isn’t a beer we will drink all the time, although it was nice to see what all the fuss is about.
Our favorite bar in Brussels was fortunately very close to our hotel. It was called Delirium Café named after its best-selling beer, Delirium Tremens. The beer is a Belgian Tripel with a label featuring what appears to be an intoxicated pink elephant. Delerium Tremens is around 9.5% ABV and was elected as the best beer in the world in 2008. Delirium Café holds the Guiness Book of world records for number of beers available, claiming over 2400 different beers. The beer menu was as thick as a telephone book, so we did not verify by counting. In addition to beer, there are separate bars on the same block for whisky, rum, vodka, tequila and absinthe; each with hundreds of different varieties to try. Delirium Café, a destination unto itself, is in a tourist trap area of Brussels, but was neither terribly overcrowded nor crazy while we were there.
One of the things I really enjoy about Belgian Beers is that each is served in a unique glass. There are a wide range of style and shape to accent the aroma and flavor of each beer. See the photo of Mary Pat enjoying one of her favorites, the Kwak. Its glass looks like something from chemistry lab complete with a wooden cradle to pick it up. The glass makes a “Kwak-ing” noise when you drink from it. All respectable Belgian bars keep the glasses for each of the beers they serve.
A trip to Belgium is worth it just for the seemingly endless variety of beer. Then add in good food, nice people and great surroundings, you have the makings of a great vacation.
Abbey beers come in several major styles, all with rich and unique flavors. All Abbeys use a similar style of yeast that lend a characteristic aroma and flavor to the beer. Each one puts its own stamp on their beer through unique recipes and production methods. The first Strong Ale style is the Belgian Dubbel: darker and a bit sweeter, usually between 6-7% ABV. The second Strong Ale style is the Belgian Tripel: paler, drier and generally between 7-9% ABV. A third style of Abbey beer is the Quadruple: with ABV values ranging from 8-11%, is a bit over the top to my taste.
The most famous and popular of the Abbey style beers are made by Trappist Monks. The monks follow the Rule of St. Benedict; the fundamental tenets are that each monastery must be self- supporting. Monasteries generally use the sale of beer, cheese and bread to achieve these goals. There are 170 active Trappist Monasteries in the world, one of which is close to Cincinnati in Bardstown, KY. Only 7 monasteries actively brew Trappist beer. Of those, 6 are in Belgium and 1 is in Holland. Since the Middle Ages monks have used the profits from the sale of the beer to fund living expenses and upkeep of the Abbeys. All extra profits are donated to charity.
Six of the seven Trappist brands are available for sale in the US market. The 7th and most difficult beer to obtain is Westvleteren. Yearly production of Westvleteren is only 60,000 cases and this amount has not increased since 1946. The monks do not use a distributer and beer is sold only by the case. You must call the abbey at certain times and make a reservation to pick up your beer. Despite being an extremely rare beer, Westvleteren has won a significant following, including being voted as the Best Beer in the World in 2005. Beer rating websites routinely rank it near the top year after year. We had the opportunity to try a ‘Westy 8’ during our trip to Belgium and very much enjoyed it. Westvleteren is a Dubbel style with thick, rich, malty taste and full of plum and fig flavors. At 9 Euro a bottle it isn’t a beer we will drink all the time, although it was nice to see what all the fuss is about.
Our favorite bar in Brussels was fortunately very close to our hotel. It was called Delirium Café named after its best-selling beer, Delirium Tremens. The beer is a Belgian Tripel with a label featuring what appears to be an intoxicated pink elephant. Delerium Tremens is around 9.5% ABV and was elected as the best beer in the world in 2008. Delirium Café holds the Guiness Book of world records for number of beers available, claiming over 2400 different beers. The beer menu was as thick as a telephone book, so we did not verify by counting. In addition to beer, there are separate bars on the same block for whisky, rum, vodka, tequila and absinthe; each with hundreds of different varieties to try. Delirium Café, a destination unto itself, is in a tourist trap area of Brussels, but was neither terribly overcrowded nor crazy while we were there.
One of the things I really enjoy about Belgian Beers is that each is served in a unique glass. There are a wide range of style and shape to accent the aroma and flavor of each beer. See the photo of Mary Pat enjoying one of her favorites, the Kwak. Its glass looks like something from chemistry lab complete with a wooden cradle to pick it up. The glass makes a “Kwak-ing” noise when you drink from it. All respectable Belgian bars keep the glasses for each of the beers they serve.
A trip to Belgium is worth it just for the seemingly endless variety of beer. Then add in good food, nice people and great surroundings, you have the makings of a great vacation.
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