Brussels Belgium, Summer 2012

Brussels comes from an Old Dutch word for “home in the marsh” and was officially founded in 979. It was a walled city which outgrew its walls, so a second set was built between 1356 and 1383. Much of what we see today was built after the late 17th century. In 1695 French Troops of Louis XIV bombarded and destroyed the city. Since the French did not retain power, the Belgians rapidly rebuilt the city taking only 4 years to complete the major works. Most of the tourist sites are a short distance from each other and can been seen quite quickly in an afternoon stroll.

The Grand Place is a UNESCO world heritage site and contains the major sites of the city. Though mainly rebuilt after the devastation of 1695, there had been a market on that site since 1174. The Grand Place contains: Town Hall, King’s House, Swan House, Chocolate Shops and Guild Halls that house many restaurants. The noteworthy chocolatiers in the square are Godiva, Neuhaus, Galler and Leonidas, all being fairly equal to me the non-chocolate connoisseur.

St Michael’s Cathedral, built from 1200-1500 AD is just a short walk from the Grand Place. We were unable to go inside but the outside of the building was quite impressive and large. The Royal Weddings and other events take place here.

Belgium, after gaining its independence from the Netherlands, finds a king, Leopold I to rule them. Leopold I is the visionary for rebuilding the city and makes his mark by bringing rail transportation to the city. It was his son, Leopold II who acquires the Congo region of Africa and uses the wealth acquired from Congo to rebuild Brussels. Leopold II builds the Royal Palace near the existing palace by linking together a row of townhouse mansions with a façade. The Royal Palace is used as the business office of the King, and other stately events. The Royal Palace is only open to visitors during the month of August. Luckily our trip was the first weekend of August and we went on the tour. The interior was impressive, and I have never seen so many chandeliers in one place. The elegance of the Royal Palace is impressive and quite a monument to country.

Across the boulevard from the Royal Palace is the Parc de Bruxelles designed for the people of Belgium in 1776. Commissioned by the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, the rulers of Belgium and also the mother of Marie Antoinette, Parc de Bruxelles was patterned after the gardens at Versailles, France. Empress Maria Theresa was not known to have visited either Brussels or Versailles, but I have! Both parks are beautiful. In the garden there was a sculpture display of giant Brussels sprouts, cones of frittes and huge mussels. The whimsical sculptures, each uniquely decorated where lining the paths through the garden. Traveling through the garden and heading back to the old town, we found ourselves at one of the many art museums. Coincidentally, our hotel had given us entry passes for the Bozar Summer of Photography exhibit.

Every other year the Center for Fine Arts organizes the Summer of Photography art show. The theme this time was Landscape Photography. The display was made up of 160 works by 40 artists from every member country of the EU. The idea was to demonstrate the diversity of the European landscape. The display was divided into regions: northern, central and Mediterranean. The photographs were wonderful and truly gave perspective to the physical differences between the regions. It was a great way to spend the rest of the morning, and it made us ready for lunch.

No trip to Brussels would be complete without mussels and frittes, a great lunch! Belgium is also famous for waffles and beer. You can get both just about anywhere anytime of the day or night. The Belgians say that they eat as heartily as the Germans and as well as the French. I have to agree with that. If you ever have the chance to get there, you must also try the Flemish Beef Stew. We found the most delicious stew at Aux Armes de Brussels. Mussels are pretty standard wherever you go, variations by the steaming sauces, but the stew can be acceptable or superb. At Aux Armes de Brussels you will find superb. The secret, our waiter told us, is using Irish beef and the best Belgian beer you can get. So now you know! Get to Brussels soon before it is all gone.