Auch, France 2012

Auch is in the heart of Gascony, a region in the southwest of France. The area is known for its delicious, hearty and unpretentious cuisine of beans, sausage, duck, garlic and wine. The most famous of dishes are cassolet, saucisse de Toulouse, confit de canard and foie gras all washed down with a Fronton wine or an Armagnac. The regional diet is the fattiest in France, but the people here live the longest. They have been living here since pre-Roman times, as the area was important for the overland trade route between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean.  

Today Auch’s population is around 20,000 people and is the capital of the region Gers. The city is best known for its cathedral, Ste. Marie, which towers over the town. This cathedral is part of the southern route of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Construction on the cathedral began in 1489 but was not completed until two centuries later. The cathedral is an example of the style known as French Gothic. The hallmarks of the French Gothic Style are: pointed arches, high walls which required the invention of flying buttresses for support. The high walls allowed big windows which were important to let in light. Ste. Marie Cathedral has all of these features. Most striking are the stained glass windows, the choir stalls and the flying buttresses outside. The stained glass is a beautiful example of early 16th century work. The windows are unusually large in size and the subjects are people from everyday life, biblical figures, and prophetic women from antiquity, scenes of heaven and the life of Jesus. The colors are vivid and the detailing on the faces and clothing are remarkable.  

The choir is massive. It was built first over the course of 50 years and used by the monks who lived in the adjoining monastery. The wooden choir has 113 stalls, comprised of over 1500 carvings in oak. The carvings take on the same themes as the stained glass. There are two organs; the great organ is a masterpiece by Jean de Joyeuse and a chancel organ is located in the choir stalls. Concerts are given from May through September.  

Leaving the Cathedral Ste. Marie, on one side is the former bishop’s residence which now serves as the Prefecture. And on the other side is the Tour d’Armagnac which is the watch tower of the former prison. From this side of the square, the Monumental Staircase of 233 steps leads you to the river Gers. About halfway down the staircase is a statue of one of the most celebrated figures of Gascony: D’Artagnan.  

D’Artagnan’s real name was Charles de Batz, but he used his mother’s more influential name to gain acceptance at court. He became one of the Musketeers in 1632 and positioned himself as a close confidant of Cardinal Mazarin. D’Artagnan functioned as a spy for Cardinal Mazrin, and subsequently for King Louis XIV. At that time, Nicholas Fouquet was the Finance Commissioner of France. Nicholas Fouquet was fond of fine living and built himself the beautiful Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte. To celebrate the completion of his chateau, Fouquet threw a grand ball. Everyone who was invited; including the King of France, was given a horse. This angered the King because he suspected the Royal Treasury had been pilfered for this display of extravagance. D’Artagnan was instructed by the King to arrest Fouquet and guard him for four years until he could be brought to trial and sentenced to a life in prison. D’Artagnan was given the govern ship of Lille, but he did not like to govern, nor was he popular as a governor. He returned to battle and there he was killed during the Franco-Dutch War on June 23, 1673. In 1700, his life was commemorated in the novel Les Memories de M. d’Artagnan by Gatien de Courtilzde Sandras. One hundred years later, this novel was discovered again by Alexandre Dumas who used this as the basis of his series of novels: The Three Musketeers, Twenty Years After and The Vicomte de Bragelonne. From these novels, multiple movies and stage plays had been made.

Although a small town, Auch has a rich history and is well preserved today. Medieval streets and portals into the former walled city remain. The town has two marked historic walks, frequent markets and a lively restaurant scene with local specialties. I lunched on several preparations of duck, a bit of foie gras and an apple tart. Since it was a short train ride from Toulouse, I’ll be back.