Rocamadour, France April 2013

Easter came early this year and it was still raining and cold in Toulouse. With a three day weekend and a grim forecast, we looked for an area with reasonable weather and something to see. The tour booklet “Grand Sites of the Midee Pyrenees” list Rocamadour as a must see, so off we went Michelin Green Guide in hand. The legends of Rocamadour described in our Green Guide are as interesting as the pictures and it might just be the perfect location for Easter.

Remember Zacheus the tax collector of Jericho who climbed the tree to see Jesus? His wife was St. Veronica who wiped the face of Jesus with her veil. Together they were forced to escape Palestine not long after the crucifixion of Jesus. The story in the Green Guide relates a tale of a rickety boat on the Lot River guided by an angel bringing them to the area not far from Rocamadour. They supposedly lived out their lives in this region converting the locals to Christianity. Later in the history of Rocamadour, the story continues that St. Amadour wanted to be buried under the existing church in Rocamadour. While digging the grave for St. Amadour, another ancient corpse is uncovered. This body is thought to be Zacheus’. The relics of St. Amadour are still underneath the churches in a subterranean chapel. 

St. Amadour is credited with carving the famed statute of Our Lady of Rocamadour. This walnut wooden statue is one of 180 Black Madonna’s in France. In 1172, writings describing the Miracles of Our Lady of Rocamadour were widely distributed. Thousands upon thousands of pilgrims came here, some on their way to Santiago de Compostela and others for the miracles of Rocamadour. One particularly special pilgrim was Roland, one of Charlemagne’s Twelve Peers and possibly his best warrior. The Song of Roland commemorates his mighty deeds and a pilgrimage to Rocamadour. Roland’s sword was called the Durandal, the sharpest sword in existence. The hilt of the Durandal contained the tooth of Saint Peter, the blood of Saint Basil and the hair of Saint Denis. Before Roland was killed, he attempted to break his sword so no one else could use it. The sword would not break, so Roland threw it to the Archangel Michael and it is allegedly embedded in the cliff wall at Rocamadour, far from his enemies.

Other pilgrims were not as famous as Roland. Some pilgrims were sent to Rocamadour as punishment, especially the Albigensians. As part of their punishment, they had to wear special clothes covered with crosses and a very wide hat on their long walk to Rocamadour. Upon reaching the Great Staircase with 223 steps, the penitent would strip to his undershirt. Chains would be fastened to his arms and neck. The penitent would then crawl on his knees to the top, once at the top, he would be brought before the statue of Our Lady of Rocamadour where a priest would pray to absolve his sins and finally remove the chains. The penitent would receive a special medal proving this journey.

Other sites on this terrace level are the Basicila of St. Sauveur, St. Amadour’s crypt, and the Chapel of Notre-Dame. On the chapel of Notre-Dame of Rocamadour is a 9th century miraculous bell, which rings of its own accord to foretell of a miracle. Thirteenth century frescos painted on the outer wall of the chapel picture the dance of death. Continuing up the hill are the Stations of the Cross and at top of the hill is a Cross of Jerusalem which was brought from the Holy Land by pilgrims. The ramparts on top of the hill were built in the 14th century to protect the city.

After all this heavy history, it is time for some local specialties. The area is famous for truffles, walnuts, wine, strawberries and foies gras. Rocamadour is famous for a special small cheese. It is called Rocamadour, and it is a goat’s milk cheese of the Cabecores variety. The cheese has a soft rind and is usually eaten within 12-15 days. If it is aged longer a blue mold grows on its rind and the flavor becomes much stronger. I had my mold free cheese on a pizza with honey and smoked duck breast. This type of pizza holds up well to a local Cahors wine. Bon Appetite!