St. Bertrand-de-Comminges

St. Bertrand-de-Comminges is a tiny walled village in the Pyrenees with ramparts and intact gates. The Roman General Pompey settled the town in 72 BC while on his way back from victories in Spain. At the height of Roman times as many as 30,000 people lived in the area. In 409 AD, the Vandals conquered and devastated the lower part of the town. The remaining residents moved into the upper part of the village. At this time they began to build a cathedral, however most of the population eventually abandons the town and it is mostly empty until 1073. Bertrand De l’Isle, a member of a wealthy family of Gascony and a member of the St. Augustine Monastery of Toulouse was named bishop of this remote diocese called Comminges. Bertrand was zealous about building and creating a great cathedral for this area, so he initiates the building of a new cathedral and cloister over the existing ruins. At that time, pilgrims on their way to Compostela Spain pass through the area, so the cathedral is built to accommodate them.

In 1218, Bertrand was made a saint and the town is renamed to St. Bertrand-de-Comminges. His tomb is in the cathedral and thus adding to the attractions for the pilgrims. And so they came. So many pass through that in 1294 the cathedral is enlarged and finally completed in 1555. Due to the remoteness of the location, the cathedral is generally left alone during the French Revolution and is remarkably intact. The cathedral is UNESCO World Heritage Site as well as an official stop on the French Route of St. Jaques de Compostela pilgrimage. The cloister dates back to the 12th century, and the bell tower was also used as a military storage facility during the Middle Ages. Inside, there are 66 choir stalls enclosed in a “Jube” style church. The “Jube” design keeps the monks separated from the rest of the population during the services. The choir is a wonderful example of medieval wood work in pristine condition. The many of the oak carvings and figures are quite amusing.  

The organ is a rare construction of an elevated corner cabinet, and is considered the “Third Wonder of Gascony”. A local, famous architect and sculptor Nicholas Bachelier designed both the choir and the organ. He is also well known in Toulouse for designing the Assezat Hotel, one of the most famous stately homes in the city. I can see the tower of the Assezat Hotel from my living room window. The organ was built on 5 fluted Corinthian pillars and elevated into the corner due to a lack of space in the cathedral. The cabinet panels tell the story of the labors of Hercules. The organ has undergone 3 major renovations, the most recent in 1974. It currently has 40 stops, 3 manuals and pedals. Every summer there is an internationally renowned music festival which features this organ.

The town itself has many artisans working and is famous for hand painted umbrellas, wood works and other artisanal objects. It is a destination worth going to if not for a pilgrimage, then at least for the view, several whimsical sculptures and to see a fabulous example of a medieval cathedral.