Cologne Germany, June 2013

Cologne is the 4th largest city in Germany, covering both sides of the Rhine River. Historically, the city was founded by the Romans in 50 AD who made it a military headquarters. Later Cologne was taken over by the Franks in 426. Location on the Rhine River made it one of the most important cities for trade between Eastern and Western Europe. Following the German conquest of Milan Italy, relics of the 3 Magi were relocated here. The grand Cologne Cathedral was built to house the relics and become a monument to Christianity. The Cathedral was started in 1248 but not fully completed until 1880. Unlike many cathedrals in Europe that have taken centuries to complete, the original plans were relocated in 1842 and followed to completion.

The Cologne Cathedral is the largest Gothic church in Northern Europe. The twin towers are 515 feet tall making them the second tallest spires in the world, and the entire façade is the largest of any church in the world. There are 20,000 visitors per day and many take to stairs to the top of the tower; there are 509 steps to the top. At the top is an impressive set of bells, 11 bells total, 4 of them dating back to medieval times. The Cathedral was hit by bombs 70 times during WWII, but it did not collapse. Restoration work was necessary, and completed in the 1950’s.

During WWI, Cologne did not suffer much damage, but WWII saw almost total decimation. There were 262 air raids targeting the city, including “Operation Millennium” which was the first 1000 bomber raid conducted by the Royal Air Force. The population of Cologne fell by 95% as a result of the war and did not fully recover until the 1970’s. Currently there are over 1 million people in Cologne and many more in the surrounding area.  

Rebuilding after WWII was directed by Rudolf Schwartz an architect and urban planner. There were 12 Romanesque Churches rebuilt and several medieval buildings preserved, but much of the rest of the city is strikingly modern. Urban planning included preparation for more automotive traffic and parking. This gives the city a decidedly modern feel, with pedestrian malls, public transportation and access to a large train station. The trains are a combination of local trains and high speed transport between major European cities. Cologne has well over 2 million visitors per year. With more pubs per capita of any city in Germany and Europe’s largest Carnival Celebration, it is no wonder people come. Interestingly, when we were there, we encountered many a bachelor and bachelorette party. There was a feeling of excitement and optimism among the younger generation. The economy appeared to be doing well, as all the shops and restaurants were crowded. Cologne is a vibrant city with much to see and do, including over 300 museums and many other cultural events throughout the year. Not to mention Kolsch beer and traditional German food! Prost!