On a drive back from Paris earlier this summer, we took a detour to the Champagne region of France. We spent an afternoon in Epernay and overnighted in Reims. During the weekend we had time to tour a champagne cave and go do a tasting. The tour we chose to go on was located at Champagne GH Martle which included the caves and a look at antique equipment for champagne production. Many of the caves in the region were a result of the Romans mining chalk form the region. The caves provide the proper temperature for champagne production. Champagne is a relatively newer wine making production method. What I found most interesting in the antique equipment were the stoves that were put out in the fields in case of frost and the safety shields used in the event of exploding bottles. I guess it didn’t occur to me that there were so many hazards back in the old days! And to top it off, that evening there was a fantastic laser light show on the front of the historic Notre Dame Cathedral in Reims. The history of the region fascinated me, so I had to write it down to remember later when I enjoy a few bubbles.
Champagne is a region in France about 100 miles north east of Paris at the most northern edge of the wine growing region of France. The Romans planted wine grapes in this region between the 3rd and 5th centuries, but given the climate, the wines produced were different and more difficult to manage than many others French varieties. With the relatively high altitudes, northern latitudes and erratic sunshine the grapes do not fully ripen so are highly acidic at harvest. Cold temperatures over the winter halt the wines fermentation. When the temperatures rise again in the spring, fermentation starts again. If the wine was bottled before this secondary fermentation, the wine might contain bubbles and the glass bottles had the tendency to explode. Despite this, wines from this region were well liked by many, and highly acclaimed. Red wines were the popular wines of the day and the Burgundy region nearby produced a spectacular wine. This started a rivalry between to two regions. This rivalry between Champagne and Burgundy continued for centuries. At various points in time one region seemed to have an edge over the other. During different phases of the wine battles the regions employed physicians to write scientific papers that touted the benefits of one wine over the other. Pamphlets were developed from these papers and distributed among the people. The tensions were so high between the regions that civil war almost resulted. Finally, many wine producers in the Champagne region stopped trying to make full bodied red wines and concentrate on the production of sparkling wines. The doctors then switched to writing about the health benefits of bubbles and thought that perhaps the bubbles cured malaria.
Reims was the early capital of France. Clovis the King of the Franks was baptized by the Bishop of Reims and a dove brought holy oil from heaven for the anointing. For the next 8 centuries the Kings of France were crowned in the cathedral at Reims and local wines were served. The tradition was to export wines from this region to give to the kings of other countries to celebrate when a new king of France was crowned. As a result, many foreigners liked the wines of this region. But the volatility and fragility of the wines were problematic. At first, cellar masters tried to figure out methods to keep the bubbles out of the wines, and later on, the goal became to make more bubbles.
One of the pioneering cellar masters was Dom Perignon, a Benedictine monk at the abbey in Hautvillers who lived between 1638- and 1715. Although not the inventor of Champagne as we know it today, he was instrumental in improving winemaking and moved wine production towards a sparkling wine. Dom Perignon was the first to blend the wines to improve their quality and improved the method of producing white wine from black grapes by manipulating the presses. He enhanced the wine’s ability to retain natural sugar to induce secondary fermentation. He also used a thicker bottle, a cork instead of wood and tied oiled hemp string around the cork to prevent popping. The English, due to the wine’s great popularity in England, were instrumental in improving production methods and understanding the science behind the secondary fermentation.
Why is champagne champagne and not just any sparkling wine champagne? In 1927 the boundaries of the Champagne region were set and limited to an area covering 33,500 hectares. In 1942 the CIVC (Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne) was created to protect the reputation and marketing of champagne. No other wine except that produced in these specific vineyards, under very specific conditions for growing grapes, pruning, harvesting, pressing and fermenting can be called champagne.
There are 5 wine producing regions using just 3 kinds of grapes grown in well-draining chalky belemite marine fossil subsoil. The regions are Aube, Cote des Blancs, Cote de Sezanne, Montagne de Reims and Vallee de la Marne. The grapes grown are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Pinot Noir is primarily grown in Aube and Montagne de Reims and adds the aroma of red fruits while giving champagne its strength and body. Pinot Meunier is the primary grape of Vallee de la Marne providing champagne with roundness and fragrance. Cotes des Blancs region is devoted to Chardonnay production and this grape provides finesse, floral aromas along with mineral overtones.
There are strict guidelines for pruning and harvest as well as the rest of the champagne production. Harvest and sorting are done by hand. Pressing quickly follows often there is a press in the vineyards to limit the possibility of accidentally crushing the grapes. Pressing is vital to the process. Generally, there are 4 to 5 pressings of the grapes; juice form each press is separated from each other. The first press yields the highest quality of champagne, followed by second and third pressings. Fourth and fifth pressings are not used in champagne production; rather the wine produced from these pressings is often distilled into cognac.
After the primary fermentation occurs, the cellar master decides if and how to do the blending. At this point several things can occur. If the cellar master determines that a wine is of the most excellent quality, no blending will occur and this wine will be used to make vintage champagne. Often there is no vintage year declared. When this happens, the cellar master is responsible for blending wines that the house has produced over the past several years to match the house style of champagne. There may be up to 70 blending wines to choose from. Once the blending has occurred the wine is put in the bottle along with “liqueur de triage”, a mixture of yeast and sugar to induce secondary fermentation. The bottle is capped with a crown type cap and laid horizontal for a minimum of 15 months.
The next stage is called “Riddling”. The yeast and sugar added in the second stage has built up on the side of the bottle where it has been laid. The process of “Riddling” moves the sediment to the neck of the bottle as it is slowly turned to bottoms up position. In the olden days, this process was done by hand over the course of 8 weeks. Now mechanical processing is completed in 8 days. Of note though, large format bottles the “Jeroboam”-equal to 4 bottles and the “Nebuchadnezzar”-equal to 20 bottles are still “riddled” by hand.
Once the yeast debris is in the neck of the bottle, the “Disgorgement” process happens. The neck of the bottle is frozen and the sediment is removed. The final step, “Dosage” occurs. This step determines the final type of champagne produced by the amount of wine and sugar mixture is added to top off the bottle and the cork inserted.
Sweetness levels are as follows:
Brut: the driest type with less than 1.5% sugar
Extra Sec: extra dry with 1.2-2.0% sugar
Sec: medium sweet with 1.7-3.5% sugar
Demi-Sec: sweet with 3.5-5% sugar (dessert champagne)
Doux: very sweet over 5% sugar (dessert champagne)
Other descriptors of champagne are used:
Blanc de Blanc: made from 100% Chardonnay-light and usually dry, popular as an aperitif or with soups and seafood.
Blanc de Noir: made from Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier-full bodied and a deeper yellow gold color, often served with full flavored foods including meats and cheese.
Pink or Rose: only accounts for 5% of all champagne production made by the addition of a little red wine or exposing the juice to the skins longer during the press.
Non-vintage: accounts for 85-90% of champagne produced, multiple years of wine used in the blending.
Vintage: single harvest year-a decision by each champagne house.
Cuvees de Prestige: blends that make a top end champagne.
Once you bring your bottle home, treat it well by storing it in the dark at 40-60 degrees F. Champagne should not be shaken nor should it spout everywhere upon serving. Properly opened champagne should sigh with the release of the cork, not shower all of your guests!
Thursday, August 22, 2013
Tuesday, August 13, 2013
Cologne Germany Photos, June 2013
Cologne Skyline
Train Station
Rhine River Waterfront
Modern building on river
Sleek interior
Cologne Cathedral
Locks on bridge
Pub Scene
Restaurant Area
Rhine River
Modern and Antique
Cologne Germany, June 2013
Cologne is the 4th largest city in Germany, covering both sides of the Rhine River. Historically, the city was founded by the Romans in 50 AD who made it a military headquarters. Later Cologne was taken over by the Franks in 426. Location on the Rhine River made it one of the most important cities for trade between Eastern and Western Europe. Following the German conquest of Milan Italy, relics of the 3 Magi were relocated here. The grand Cologne Cathedral was built to house the relics and become a monument to Christianity. The Cathedral was started in 1248 but not fully completed until 1880. Unlike many cathedrals in Europe that have taken centuries to complete, the original plans were relocated in 1842 and followed to completion.
The Cologne Cathedral is the largest Gothic church in Northern Europe. The twin towers are 515 feet tall making them the second tallest spires in the world, and the entire façade is the largest of any church in the world. There are 20,000 visitors per day and many take to stairs to the top of the tower; there are 509 steps to the top. At the top is an impressive set of bells, 11 bells total, 4 of them dating back to medieval times. The Cathedral was hit by bombs 70 times during WWII, but it did not collapse. Restoration work was necessary, and completed in the 1950’s.
During WWI, Cologne did not suffer much damage, but WWII saw almost total decimation. There were 262 air raids targeting the city, including “Operation Millennium” which was the first 1000 bomber raid conducted by the Royal Air Force. The population of Cologne fell by 95% as a result of the war and did not fully recover until the 1970’s. Currently there are over 1 million people in Cologne and many more in the surrounding area.
Rebuilding after WWII was directed by Rudolf Schwartz an architect and urban planner. There were 12 Romanesque Churches rebuilt and several medieval buildings preserved, but much of the rest of the city is strikingly modern. Urban planning included preparation for more automotive traffic and parking. This gives the city a decidedly modern feel, with pedestrian malls, public transportation and access to a large train station. The trains are a combination of local trains and high speed transport between major European cities. Cologne has well over 2 million visitors per year. With more pubs per capita of any city in Germany and Europe’s largest Carnival Celebration, it is no wonder people come. Interestingly, when we were there, we encountered many a bachelor and bachelorette party. There was a feeling of excitement and optimism among the younger generation. The economy appeared to be doing well, as all the shops and restaurants were crowded. Cologne is a vibrant city with much to see and do, including over 300 museums and many other cultural events throughout the year. Not to mention Kolsch beer and traditional German food! Prost!
The Cologne Cathedral is the largest Gothic church in Northern Europe. The twin towers are 515 feet tall making them the second tallest spires in the world, and the entire façade is the largest of any church in the world. There are 20,000 visitors per day and many take to stairs to the top of the tower; there are 509 steps to the top. At the top is an impressive set of bells, 11 bells total, 4 of them dating back to medieval times. The Cathedral was hit by bombs 70 times during WWII, but it did not collapse. Restoration work was necessary, and completed in the 1950’s.
During WWI, Cologne did not suffer much damage, but WWII saw almost total decimation. There were 262 air raids targeting the city, including “Operation Millennium” which was the first 1000 bomber raid conducted by the Royal Air Force. The population of Cologne fell by 95% as a result of the war and did not fully recover until the 1970’s. Currently there are over 1 million people in Cologne and many more in the surrounding area.
Rebuilding after WWII was directed by Rudolf Schwartz an architect and urban planner. There were 12 Romanesque Churches rebuilt and several medieval buildings preserved, but much of the rest of the city is strikingly modern. Urban planning included preparation for more automotive traffic and parking. This gives the city a decidedly modern feel, with pedestrian malls, public transportation and access to a large train station. The trains are a combination of local trains and high speed transport between major European cities. Cologne has well over 2 million visitors per year. With more pubs per capita of any city in Germany and Europe’s largest Carnival Celebration, it is no wonder people come. Interestingly, when we were there, we encountered many a bachelor and bachelorette party. There was a feeling of excitement and optimism among the younger generation. The economy appeared to be doing well, as all the shops and restaurants were crowded. Cologne is a vibrant city with much to see and do, including over 300 museums and many other cultural events throughout the year. Not to mention Kolsch beer and traditional German food! Prost!
Tuesday, August 6, 2013
Aachen Germany, Photos June 2013
Statue of Charlemagne
Remains of Charlemagne
Guilded walls of cathedral 
Ceiling of cathedral
12th century chandelier
Rathaus and fountain
Back side of Rathaus
Crown jewels
Fountain of Boy with Fish
Modern gargoyle
Street in Aachen
Modern Fountain
Aachen Germany, June 2013
Aachen, an historical spa town is also known to Germans as Bad Aachen, but the preference is to just use Aachen to keep it first alphabetically. Settled in prehistoric times, there traces of human activity there since 3000 AD. The Romans enjoyed the hot sulphur springs and built baths in the area by 124 AD. Romans packed up and left when they were taken over by the Franks and left by the beginning of the 5th century. Afterwards, Pippin the Younger had a castle residence built in the town. Most famous resident however was Charlemagne, The Holy Roman Emperor. Charlemagne made Aachen his winter home between 792 and his death in 814.
The church of Charlemagne is quite spectacular. It was started in 796 and has had several additions. This church became a cathedral and is one of the great examples of Byzantine architecture in this part of Europe. Charlemagne’s remains are interred here in this cathedral. During the 11th century an altar was added and then a chandelier in the 12th century. The art and guilding are quite extensive, making it one of the most beautiful cathedrals that I have seen. From 936 to 1531 all 30 of the German kings were crowned in the cathedral and civil ceremonies were carried out in the Rathaus, town hall. Remnants of other medieval structures are two city gates, five towers and parts of the city walls.
During the medieval period, Aachen was prosperous due to its proximity to Flanders for trade in wool and other textiles. Since it was an important royal city, Aachen was left out of much of the politics of Europe at the time. But by the 16th century, the kings preferred to use Frankfurt as their royal city, leaving Aachen to be a spa town and a place for high paid prostitutes. During industrial times, Aachen again made use of its location, coal resources and train station to become an important city again. Aachen is well connected to all major cities in Europe, and has several high speed trains through it now. Currently Aachen is a major city for information technology in Germany and has several prominent universities. A lesser known fact is that Aachen is the birth place of Reuters News Agency. In 1850 Paul Julius Reuter founded a news agency in Aachen and used carrier pigeons to carry information between Aachen and Brussels.
Aachen was the first city in Germany to be captured by the Allies in WWII. Many historic buildings were damaged and have subsequently been restored. The cathedral however, was not damaged during WWII, but the Rathaus was fairly hard hit. Much of the area around the Rathaus square and cathedral retains their medieval charm, with narrow streets, cobblestones and ancient buildings. Inside the Rathaus you can see portraits of the kings of Germany, coronation items and beautiful frescos on the walls. The cathedral was the first building in Germany to make the UNESCO list. There is a treasury next to the cathedral with many historic religious articles and artifacts. All around town you can see many statues and fountains, some very old and some rather new. For such an ancient place, Aachen has a modern vibrant feel. It is a great place to make a day trip from any of the boarder countries or as we did from Cologne.
The church of Charlemagne is quite spectacular. It was started in 796 and has had several additions. This church became a cathedral and is one of the great examples of Byzantine architecture in this part of Europe. Charlemagne’s remains are interred here in this cathedral. During the 11th century an altar was added and then a chandelier in the 12th century. The art and guilding are quite extensive, making it one of the most beautiful cathedrals that I have seen. From 936 to 1531 all 30 of the German kings were crowned in the cathedral and civil ceremonies were carried out in the Rathaus, town hall. Remnants of other medieval structures are two city gates, five towers and parts of the city walls.
During the medieval period, Aachen was prosperous due to its proximity to Flanders for trade in wool and other textiles. Since it was an important royal city, Aachen was left out of much of the politics of Europe at the time. But by the 16th century, the kings preferred to use Frankfurt as their royal city, leaving Aachen to be a spa town and a place for high paid prostitutes. During industrial times, Aachen again made use of its location, coal resources and train station to become an important city again. Aachen is well connected to all major cities in Europe, and has several high speed trains through it now. Currently Aachen is a major city for information technology in Germany and has several prominent universities. A lesser known fact is that Aachen is the birth place of Reuters News Agency. In 1850 Paul Julius Reuter founded a news agency in Aachen and used carrier pigeons to carry information between Aachen and Brussels.
Aachen was the first city in Germany to be captured by the Allies in WWII. Many historic buildings were damaged and have subsequently been restored. The cathedral however, was not damaged during WWII, but the Rathaus was fairly hard hit. Much of the area around the Rathaus square and cathedral retains their medieval charm, with narrow streets, cobblestones and ancient buildings. Inside the Rathaus you can see portraits of the kings of Germany, coronation items and beautiful frescos on the walls. The cathedral was the first building in Germany to make the UNESCO list. There is a treasury next to the cathedral with many historic religious articles and artifacts. All around town you can see many statues and fountains, some very old and some rather new. For such an ancient place, Aachen has a modern vibrant feel. It is a great place to make a day trip from any of the boarder countries or as we did from Cologne.
Thursday, August 1, 2013
B is for Belgium B is for Beer Photos May 2013
Sint Sixtus Monastery
Westvlereten Pick up
De Struise Browers
Hop Fields
't Hommelhof
Chef Stefaan Couttenye
Markt, Bruges
Bell Tower by day
Bell Tower by night
In a secret garden
Church of Our Lady
Canal Scene
Flemish Primitive, Gerard David
B is for Belgium B is for Beer
B is for Belgium, B is for beer. There are over 175 breweries in Belgium putting out numerous types of beer. The number one beer in the world which also happens to be the rarest beer in the world is found in Westvleteren Belgium. So, of course we had to get some! What is this beer and how do you get it? The beer is called Westvleteren and is brewed in small quantities by the Cistercian (Trappist) monks of Sint Sixtus Abbey which was founded in 1038. They brew beer in order to meet the expenses of the abbey, no more beer than that is made. In order to get the beer you can do one of two things: visit the abbey on Mondays to Thursdays or Saturday to go the beer shop. There they offer small quantities of beer for sale, when it is gone, it’s gone- the shop closes for the day! Or you can call and make a reservation to pick up a maximum of two cases of beer. Now, that appears to be a simple means to get the product, however, everyone wants this beer and everyone is trying to make the call. I called and got a busy signal, so I kept at it for over three hours. Later I found out that only one person out of twenty actually gets through to make the reservation. So off we went to Westvleteren to rendezvous with the monks. Once there, we kept our appointment and picked up the 2 cases of Westvleteren 12s. The shop was open as well, so we also purchased a few additional styles of the beer. Westvleteren makes a 6%, an 8% and a 12% beer, we are missing the 8’s!
So once we had beer in trunk, we were able to relax and enjoy the rest of the weekend. Well, what to do? We decided to stay in an area of Belgium called Poperinge right across the border with France. Watou is a small town located there. Watou happens to be the home of St. Bernardus Brewery. This brewery shares a history with Sint Sixtus. Following WWII Sint Sixtus was looking for a partner to assist with the commercialization of their beer. There was a cheese factory nearby which was founded in the 19th century by monks who left France due to the French Revolution. The French monks had since returned to France and left the cheese factory to Evarist Decoinck to continue making cheese. The monks from Sint Sixtus brought the brewmaster, the recipes and yeast strain from Westvlereten to the cheese factory to start up production. These beers were sold as Trappist Westvlereten, St. Sixtus and Sixtus. For the next 46 years this was the way they brewed, the monks brewed at the monastery to meet their needs and the commercial end was in Watou. In 1992, Belgian beer laws changed to require that the name “Trappist beer” was reserved for those beers that are brewed in a monastery by monks. So the name of the beer in Watou was changed to St. Bernardus, but all else remained the same: the recipes and the yeast. St. Bernardus offers tours in English on Saturdays, which includes a tour of the brewery, warehouse, hop fields and tasting room.
Another highlight of the trip was a visit to the De Struise Browers in Oostvleteren, not far away. This brewery started as an ostrich farm with visitors. The farmers wanted to serve regional beer to their guests, so they began making their own. They rapidly became a microbrewery. Their name is a slang term for ostrich which also happens to mean tough. They feature ostriches on many labels. Currently, many of their beers have been rated in the top 20 beers of the world, and they are in second place to their neighbors, the Sint Sixtus monks! In addition to producing their own beers, the De Struise Browers have collaborated with other microbrewers such as Mikkellers in Denmark-a blog posting to come will be about a trip to Copenhagen.
So a day full of beer touring leaves one with a big appetite! Luckily Watou is home to a Michelin Starred chef and we were able to make a reservation. Chef Stefaan Couttenye the founder of “Cuisine a la Biere” is the first chef to combine beer in cooking and pairing beer to the menu. The restaurant is cozy and comfortable, yet refined enough to reflect the cuisine. We opted for the seasonal tasting menu. Since it was spring in Belgium, there was plenty of asparagus on the menu. The first course featured a lobster terrine with green and white asparagus and marinated asparagus in kriek. My favorite course came next, a stew of eel in a green herb sauce with cream and Belgian Triple, with asparagus. The 3rd course was lamb roasted in a dark abbey beer accompanied by …. Yes…asparagus! The final course was without asparagus, but not without beer, a dessert of chef’s choice. What an end to a perfect day!
But no trip to Belgium is complete without a visit to Bruges! I love Bruges and so do many others. We went on a sunny Sunday to do a little sightseeing. Bruges is the largest city in West Flanders with over 250,000 in the metropolitan area. What most people come to see it the old city. Romans first built a fortified city in the first century BC, and now what remains are the walls, buildings and canals that were built after the charter of 1128. Bruges was a strategic location for northern and southern European trade. The main trade through the region was cloth, and then later woolen mills started along with weaving, lace and huge trade markets. The volume of trade was large and a great deal of money was exchanged and hence the first Stock Exchange was set up here. All was going great, until the river started silting up and there was no way to get the large ships into the port. So the decline came in the late 1500s. Bruges revival came as the first tourist destination in the second half of the 19th century. Tourists came to marvel at the intact medieval city complete with canals. The city has many things going for it, from a 13th century belfry, one of the tallest brick towers in the world, relics of the blood of Christ brought back by Thierry of Alsace after the 2nd Crusade, sculptures by Michelangelo and a large collection of Flemish Primitive paintings. Come for the art, the architecture, the chocolate or the food and beer. Bruges is delightful, picturesque and completely magical. I’ll be returning soon.
So once we had beer in trunk, we were able to relax and enjoy the rest of the weekend. Well, what to do? We decided to stay in an area of Belgium called Poperinge right across the border with France. Watou is a small town located there. Watou happens to be the home of St. Bernardus Brewery. This brewery shares a history with Sint Sixtus. Following WWII Sint Sixtus was looking for a partner to assist with the commercialization of their beer. There was a cheese factory nearby which was founded in the 19th century by monks who left France due to the French Revolution. The French monks had since returned to France and left the cheese factory to Evarist Decoinck to continue making cheese. The monks from Sint Sixtus brought the brewmaster, the recipes and yeast strain from Westvlereten to the cheese factory to start up production. These beers were sold as Trappist Westvlereten, St. Sixtus and Sixtus. For the next 46 years this was the way they brewed, the monks brewed at the monastery to meet their needs and the commercial end was in Watou. In 1992, Belgian beer laws changed to require that the name “Trappist beer” was reserved for those beers that are brewed in a monastery by monks. So the name of the beer in Watou was changed to St. Bernardus, but all else remained the same: the recipes and the yeast. St. Bernardus offers tours in English on Saturdays, which includes a tour of the brewery, warehouse, hop fields and tasting room.
Another highlight of the trip was a visit to the De Struise Browers in Oostvleteren, not far away. This brewery started as an ostrich farm with visitors. The farmers wanted to serve regional beer to their guests, so they began making their own. They rapidly became a microbrewery. Their name is a slang term for ostrich which also happens to mean tough. They feature ostriches on many labels. Currently, many of their beers have been rated in the top 20 beers of the world, and they are in second place to their neighbors, the Sint Sixtus monks! In addition to producing their own beers, the De Struise Browers have collaborated with other microbrewers such as Mikkellers in Denmark-a blog posting to come will be about a trip to Copenhagen.
So a day full of beer touring leaves one with a big appetite! Luckily Watou is home to a Michelin Starred chef and we were able to make a reservation. Chef Stefaan Couttenye the founder of “Cuisine a la Biere” is the first chef to combine beer in cooking and pairing beer to the menu. The restaurant is cozy and comfortable, yet refined enough to reflect the cuisine. We opted for the seasonal tasting menu. Since it was spring in Belgium, there was plenty of asparagus on the menu. The first course featured a lobster terrine with green and white asparagus and marinated asparagus in kriek. My favorite course came next, a stew of eel in a green herb sauce with cream and Belgian Triple, with asparagus. The 3rd course was lamb roasted in a dark abbey beer accompanied by …. Yes…asparagus! The final course was without asparagus, but not without beer, a dessert of chef’s choice. What an end to a perfect day!
But no trip to Belgium is complete without a visit to Bruges! I love Bruges and so do many others. We went on a sunny Sunday to do a little sightseeing. Bruges is the largest city in West Flanders with over 250,000 in the metropolitan area. What most people come to see it the old city. Romans first built a fortified city in the first century BC, and now what remains are the walls, buildings and canals that were built after the charter of 1128. Bruges was a strategic location for northern and southern European trade. The main trade through the region was cloth, and then later woolen mills started along with weaving, lace and huge trade markets. The volume of trade was large and a great deal of money was exchanged and hence the first Stock Exchange was set up here. All was going great, until the river started silting up and there was no way to get the large ships into the port. So the decline came in the late 1500s. Bruges revival came as the first tourist destination in the second half of the 19th century. Tourists came to marvel at the intact medieval city complete with canals. The city has many things going for it, from a 13th century belfry, one of the tallest brick towers in the world, relics of the blood of Christ brought back by Thierry of Alsace after the 2nd Crusade, sculptures by Michelangelo and a large collection of Flemish Primitive paintings. Come for the art, the architecture, the chocolate or the food and beer. Bruges is delightful, picturesque and completely magical. I’ll be returning soon.
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