Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Roman Ruins in the South of France


Evidence of civilization in France dates back to prehistoric times, as evidenced by paintings left in caves in the southern area.  The Romans conquered France, then called Gaul between the years of 118-50 BC.  In the southern part of France, much evidence of Roman rule remains.  This past weekend, we traveled through Provence, in search of blooming lavender fields and Van Gogh, but discovered something else.

On our way through St Remy-de-Provence in search of Van Gogh’s inspirational landscapes, we came across several Roman antiquities.  These landmarks are just outside of town built to decorate Roman roadways. What you see are first century AD monuments: a Triumphal Arch and a Mausoleum built as a memorial to Caesar and Augustus.  Further down the road, the Roman ruins of Glanum have been excavated.

Adding to our Van Gogh-Roman expedition, we traveled to Arles.  This is the town where Van Gogh lost his ear and got himself committed to an asylum.  But perhaps more remarkable are the Roman ruins left behind.  Arles was along one of the ancient trading routes between Italy, Spain and the Rhone area, so it received quite a bit of attention.  Left behind to tour are an arena, a theater, thermal baths, and a crypt.

Perhaps the most remarkable Roman architectural feat to see in this area is the Pont du Gard.  This is part of a 31 mile long aqueduct that ran between Uzes and Nimes in southern France.  The Fontaine d'Eure, the source of the water for the aqueduct is at 249 ft. above sea level.  To bring the water to Nimes, the aqueduct drops only 10 inches per kilometer over a 30 mile stretch.  This incredible feat was accomplished without mortar; the stones precisely cut to hold together.  Much of the length of the aqueduct was built underground, approximately 22 miles, the rest was built on the surface as conduits set on walls and over bridges.  The best preserved section of this aqueduct is the Pont du Gard.  It is a three tiered wonder 49 meters above the river spanning 275 meters of river and gorge.

Historians estimate that there could have been water still flowing as late as the 4th century AD.  Lack of maintenance would have clogged it with mineral deposits and debris. During the Middle Ages, Pont du Gard functioned as a toll bridge.  Later more structure was added to improve bridge capacity.  It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, and renovations were completed in 2000 to preserve it for the future.  Some travel guides estimate that Pont du Gard is the 5th most visited site in France.  It was well worth the drive.  Next time I'll rent a kayak and a float beneath the arches!


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