Timing is everything. It can turn a bad day into a good one or a great day into something better. This is what happened on our way to see one of the mountain stages of Le Tour. Leaving early in the day, we were in search of the perfect location to watch the bikers go up hill. We wanted to watch as long as possible, hence the uphill destination. Fearing that roads may close, parking may be a nightmare, we planned to be at our destination of Massat two hours earlier than the riders were scheduled to come by. Traffic was light and we made great time, so seeing a village at the top of the hill, we made an unplanned stop in St. Lizier.
St Lizier is an ancient town, with evidence of prehistoric cave painting in the area; people have lived here a very long time. In 72 BC, Pompei passes through on his sweep of the Iberian Peninsula, organizes the tribes into the Consorani people. These people remain under Roman rule for several hundred years. Their town is enclosed with wall during the 3rd century. During the 5th century, the town was important enough to become a bisopric under the guidance of the first bishop, St. Valier. The town is named in honor of its 6th century bishop, Saint Lizier, a bishop who participated in the Council of Agde in 506. His relics are present in the cathedral today. Since the Middle Ages, having the relics of a saint was a draw for pilgrims following the way of St. James.
We parked at the bottom of the hill and made our way up to the top to see the sights. Along the way we were met with a woman taking her blind goat for a walk. We had a nice photo opportunity with our new friends. Then while touring the cathedral, we were invited to have refreshments with the parishioners after mass in the cloister. We were warmly welcomed with wine, cheese and pastis-a very warming beverage! Everyone wanted to be sure we met everyone, and did not get away without knowing that this town has been officially declared one of the most beautiful towns in France as well as a World Heritage of Unesco site since 1998. The town is also part of the road to St Jacques de Compostela (path Pyrenean Piedmont) - The Way of St. James pilgrimage, much more famous for the hike through Northern Spain. The itinerary for crossing Ariege has been designated at Grande Randonnée trail (GR 78). The 140 km can be walked in several stages of about 15 to 20 km each.
Some days are like that; stopping to see what’s there and discovering so much more. Some day I will come back for the hiking and who knows what else there will be to encounter.
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