Bilbao Spain, Fall 2012

I was promised a very mild Mediterranean climate when we moved to Toulouse, but if you ask me now I’d have to say I am not convinced. It seems that no matter where you are in 2012, you are getting unusual weather. Last winter we had the most snow and coldest temperatures in 20 years, this summer brought us Le Canacule, and in October we were hit by remnants of a hurricane. I never thought about what happens when a hurricane skips the USA and spins back into the Atlantic. Eventually those weather systems go somewhere, and this time it hit all of France and Northeastern Spain. We had visitors from the US and we wanted to show them something great! But even the best Mediterranean beach in the rain is no fun! We had to find a dry location to go. Considering everything within a four hour drive from Toulouse, it seemed as if Bilbao Spain was not in the storm’s path. Now we had a destination and a hotel reservation.  

It was not raining in Toulouse when we left, but as we drove the storm hit. The rain was coming down harder and harder the closer we got to our destination. We arrived in Bilbao to a changed forecast of all day and all night rain. But, no matter, we arrived with umbrellas and rain coats!

Bilbao is the largest city in the Basque region of Spain, with over a million people in the metropolitan area. Civilization in the region dates back many years BC, though the town of Bilbao was developed as a commercial center in the early 14th century. The location, 12 miles inland from the Biscay Bay on a river estuary made a great location for a port. Over the years, the port was used to transport the iron ore from the quarries, and iron works were developed there as well. Shakespeare mentions a sword from Bilbao in the play “The Merry Wives of Windsor”. Bilbao continued for centuries as an important industrial town.  

The Spanish Civil War started in Bilbao and the city was bombed. Shortly thereafter Bilbao was again bombed by the Germans in WWII. During these conflicts, all bridges were destroyed. Once the fighting was over, Bilbao rebuilt as an industrial city, based on iron. Crisis hit in the 1980’s with local terrorism, and cheap labor outside of Europe causing a slip in the iron industry. In the 1990’s Bilbao started projects to rejuvenate itself. The port was enlarged, and at the same time the city became more diversified with construction, commerce and tourism, making a break from heavy industry.  

Urban renewal was kick started by the building of the Guggenheim Museum. The museum opened in 1997 and had its 15 year anniversary celebration the weekend we were there. The building designed by Frank Gehry was spectacular. The rain and fog lent a surreal look to the building and sculptures along the banks of the river. The spider sculpture was perfect for a Halloween-like atmosphere. Bilbao is known for its parks and green spaces, but due to the weather, we did not get to fully appreciate this. That night the marathon was scheduled to run, so in the rain and in the dark, they went! 

Sightseeing from beneath an umbrella is not that great, so we stayed inside as much as possible. We found a fantastic pub that served tapas and beverages so inexpensively that we had to ask if they forgot to put something on the bill. For a round of drinks and lunch for four the bill totaled 22 euro. We ventured around town, making a few other stops, but found ourselves back at the same pub for dinner.  

There are great wine regions nearby that make Bilbao a good place to make a base for a wine tasting trip. The hotels in Bilbao are new, exceptional and very reasonably priced. Perhaps on a sunny weekend in the future we’ll go back. Viva Bilbao! 

By the way, it did not rain all weekend in Toulouse!