Madrid Spain, Fall 2012

Madrid has the highest elevation of all capital cities in Europe, is considered the 10th most livable city in the world and one of the greenest. For an ancient City, Madrid seems more modern than many cities we have visited in Europe. Madrid’s roots go back to 2nd century BC with Roman civilization, following with Germanic tribal rule, stints by Visigoths and Arabs, then reconquest by Christians in the mid-11th century. Little remains of the ancient city of Madrid and many of the older buildings are mid-19th century and more modern giving Madrid a vibrant feel. Besides having an extensive metro system, Spain has the largest high speed rail system in Europe and Madrid has the 15th busiest airport in the world.  

Spain was the dominating power in Europe during the 16-17th centuries. During this time, Madrid became the capital of Spain. Though Madrid remained the capital of Spain, external forces push Spain, hence Madrid into a long period of decline. Spain is ruled from afar by the Arch Dukes of Austria, and then Napoleon. Spain rebels against Napoleon, but remains debilitated by constant infighting for the rest of the 19th century. By the mid-20th century, Madrid has lost its luster and is not considered a modern city. From 1936-1939 Spain has a very bitter civil war and loses much of its population to Latin America. Finally, from 1959-1973, there is the “Spanish Miracle” when Spain begins to modernize and rebuild. Madrid annexes much of the surrounding area into the city limits, and is able to become a major metropolitan area within Europe by the end of the 1970’s.  

After the death of Francisco Franco in 1975, the Spanish government is changed over from a dictatorship to a parliamentary government under a constitutional monarchy. Juan Carlos is named King and is the Head of State. In 1986 Spain joins the European Union and experiences tremendous growth. However, this growth has halted with the burst of the real-estate bubble in 2008. Spain has landed hard and is struggling to maintain. Austerity measures, unemployment and threatened breakup of Spain into smaller countries are part of the current government headaches. In general, as a tourist, it is hard to see these problems as life seems to go on.

During our stay in Madrid, we were able to participate in the festivities for Columbus Day. We saw the military fly-over Madrid and King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia return to the Royal Palace. Streets were busy and everyone was out for the festivities. Lines were long at museums and attractions, but afternoon rain caused several lines to shorten. We were able to enjoy the Museo Thyssen, originally the private collection of Baron Hans Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza, but now a public museum. The collection has over 800 paintings ranging from the 13th century to modern times. The size of the museum is approachable and easy to take in during an afternoon. Art in Madrid is not limited to that found in museums. Here, art is displayed in parks, fountains, buildings and just almost anywhere you happen to look. Madrid is a late night city that is café oriented. Chilly weather and a bit of rain did not appear to keep anyone inside. We enjoyed a quieter plaza near our hotel for afternoon sangria and late night tapas. Viva Madrid!